Tuesday, April 12, 2022

Saint-Guilhem-le-desert to Saint Jean de la Blaquier 4/11/22

Sorry, this is a day late.  I was too darn tired to finish this last ight.

Bonjour!  Got off to a little bit of a late start. The hotel manager was not about the let me go without paying for last night's meal and breakfast this morning.  No matter what I tried, he was insistent that I could not leave until it was paid.  I tried to tell him that my meals were included but then there was this language barrier.  If I owned a hotel I would so hire this man.  He was a muscular, 6'2 black man that could have easily been a bouncer at a top club.  I wasn't going to argue too loud.  He was very nice but determined that I had to pay first.  He had my suitcase as a hostage but he wanted payment.  Ultimately, Walk the Camino called his boss and it was settled.



These are photos of the first part of today's journey from my phone. Too bad once I leave the hotel I can't follow the map. Look how squiggly.  No wonder when people say oh it is only 12 miles and when it turns out to be 18 they don't understand.  Certainly not the same route as the highway or as the crow flies.


As I walked through the village I remembered reading that this tree is 160 years old.


Such a medieval-looking sign.


Another door for Mary P.


The view of the journey ahead.


Happy to see trail markers.


This is where I thought I was heading.


But as I got close, I made a left-hand turn and climbed about three times my original oh my Gosh that is steep thought.  Bear of a climb.  I didn't ever think I was going to reach the top.


The scenery continued to be awe-inspiring for the rest of the day.


Thought you would like a little diversion and he is a beauty.  I have such a preference for black and whites except for Sir Winston,


Castle walls that still remain.


As I passed Arboras (I didn't know it was Arboras because there are never any town names as you come into them), I met this very experience-looking hiker and I asked him about Saint-Jean-de-la-Blaquier, my destination so I thought.  He shook his head (never a good sign) and pointed over the mountains.  He said that it was three hours by his hiking speed.  It is about 2:15 at this point. From what I understood, I had to go over the first mountain and it was 'jolly" but on the second mountain, he just shook his head.  I am already at about 14 miles.  Oh, Mon Dieu! So I hot-footed it, thinking I am getting too old for this #@*.


Praise God, the trail was well marked and I had no missteps. The "jolly" part was up a mountain but not the worst up I have had. The part he shook his head over was severe downhill.  So downhill that I had to take my sticks out and a couple of times, I had to sit on a rock and reach with my foot for the next step. I'll take downhill a thousand times over when I am tired.


Luckily, I made it in two hours with some energy to spare.  Maybe not soooooo old.  I have never been so happy to have a town in sight.  Well, as it turned out, I had a message that said I could stop at Arboras and my hotel would pick me up.  Jeez!  I could have saved a few very hard kilometers.


I spent the night at the Le Mimosa in Saint-Saturin-de-Lucian, easily one of my favorite nights anywhere. The B & B was beautiful and my room looked like a Swiss chalet with a vintage poster from Chamonix, one of my favorite places in Europe.


This is Eric and Marie, the most gracious of all hosts.  Marie was kind enough to pick me up in her car even though I had walked to the wrong village.


Their son and daughter-in-law with cute as a button, Celeste who was two months old.  What a good baby. I was going to steal her but they wouldn't let me.  Imagine Dennis' face if I showed up with a baby! We started with some yummy appetizers and then on the main course - a wonderful homemade lasagne.  Just what I needed after a tough 19.1 mile hiking day - a delicious meal and I sure got it at their home.


In the French way, a fresh salad followed.


Next came a cheese course and I was already stuffed but I sampled a few of them.  The French make such good cheese. Eric was most generous with a fine rosé wine.  


And lastly, this fruit salad with all bananas, pineapple, kiwi, and fresh strawberries that tasted like they were all picked today - a taste of heaven.   The whole meal was extraordinary.  During the meal, I learned a bit about the family.  Eric and Marie retired from a laboratory and bought their beautiful home about a year ago.  They also love to travel!

Le petit-déjeuner was also very good with a selection of bread and croissants.  Marie drove me back to the trail where she had picked me up yesterday.  So walking too far yesterday turned out to be a good thing.  I had a much shorter day today (Tuesday).









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