It was a glorious day. Unfortunately, I left my sunscreen and my sunglasses in my suitcase by mistake. Now I have a red face and a redneck. No smart comments about the neck already being red.
I am truly in the mountains, making the hike a little harder but ever so much prettier.
I began to see huge cliffs overlooking lakes.
I actually walked through a small village. Most of my days have been without any place to stop for a break. First, I wandered into the Chapelle of Répinitents. It was being gutted and will be restored to its former glory.
The ceilings already looked pretty good.
As I left the town, I stumbled across this little bar and was able to sit down to have a Coke-Zero and a slice of pizza. Not the best pizza but at least it filled me up.
Look at these guys floating down the rapids. That water has to be cold. It still looked like fun.
Here is where I made my only misstep of the day. I walked on the pedestrian bridge at the base of the bridge instead of across the bridge. Had I walked across the top of the bridge I would have seen the sign that directed people to St. Gulheim. Hey, I could see a town at the top of a big uphill and it was the right distance. So away I went. Today's end was in sight. This morning, I had a message from Walk the Camino (my wonderful booking company) advising me that check in time was 3:00 and if I was earlier to hang out in the town. I was tired of Coca-Cola Zero (yeah, I know hard to believe) so I ordered a vin blanc. There I am sitting fat, dumb and happy, pleased as punch that I had not made ANY wrong turns when the bartender passed by and I asked him where my hotel was. You guessed it. I was about five miles away. My wrong turn only cost me about a mile but it was an uphill mile. Proof that God has a sense of humor.—
I found the trail again but I had to asked about three people before I figured it out. The next five miles were breath taking in their beauty. I was looking down into a gorge with the Hérault River flowing through it.
Look close but there were waterfalls all along.
More views.
About half-way down to the water, I spotted young couple asleep. She is going to have burnt boobies as she is topless. Perhaps I should have said look closely here instead of earlier.
Just stunning scenery all the way to St. Guilhem.
I was pretty happy to see this sign. My dogs were barking. St Guilhem is a medieval city that has retained much of its ancient buildings. It is also a big destination area for hikers and outdoor lovers. I stopped at the first bar to asked for directions and no, I did not have another Vin Blanc or Coke Zero. The worst words that I hear when I get to my destination town is, "Oh, it is in the very top part of our town." And then I look up and it is a long uphill climb on tired legs. Oh, Mon Dieu!
At the top of the forever climb, I rounded a corner and saw this village, I knew then that the climb was worth it.
This is my hotel and if you look at the mountain, you will see a small fortress almost at the top. As I was struggling up the mountainside, I was beginning to think that was where I was headed. I took a long shower and it felt wonderful but I couldn't stand to sit in my room when there were sights to see.
This is the village square with the jail tower rising above the entrance to the church of the Abbey of Gellone. As the medieval pilgrimage route to the shrine of Saint James of Compostella in Spain developed in the 10th century, the monastery of Saint-Guilhem-le-Desert became a staging point on one of the four main routes through Europe leading to it. The rest of the village square is made up of small artisan shops containing leather goods, jewelry and pottery. And of course, little restaurants with outdoor seating.
A view of the altar. I loved the window above it in the shape of a cross.
A close-up view of the altar. It looked like a cameo.
The center stained glass window.
And a view of the organ pipes. Supposedly, there is a film called, "A Cloister's Travel" that portrays the tumultuous history of the Abbey of Gullone.
A view of the Abbey.
A mysterious door for Mary P.
According to World Heritage, "Overlooking the village, on the side of the cliff, is a castle of Visigoth origin. It was only ever a modest fortress but has attracted colorful stories involving Visigoths, Saracens and troubadours. According to legend this castle was once the abode of a Saracen giant, called Don Juan, who was defeated in improbable circumstances by the eponymous Guilhem in single combat."
I could have anything on the menu at my hotel but what I really wanted was a salad and this hit the spot. Not very exciting to write about but it tasted wonderful. The vinaigrette dressing had a big dollop of Dijon mustard.
And last but not least, a sugar crepe with chocolate decoration. It will give me sweet dreams. I will not be long awake. Today's milage was 18 mountain miles.
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