Last Day In Santiago

Gosh it is so hard to believe that tomorrow, we head home.  I am not sure how the time passes so quickly. Dennis and I had a wonderful dinner last night. We had Sole Meunière with buttered potatoes and a fresh salad of lettuce, tomato and sweet onions. The salads are so fresh here that we have nothing to compare at restaurants in the US. We sat outside and it was a beautiful night.  On the way home (oour hotel) we stopped at a bakery and bought strawberry and lemon meringues.  A few bites each and we looked like we had been in a snow storm.  They were really good though.

Dennis and I thought this man should get peregrino of the year!  And he was friendly and funny posing for the photo for me.

This is the line to get our official certificates.  AND we had already rounded a corner with about as many people.  It took us about one hour and fifteen minutes.

Look at the cute little dog that made the bicycle camino.  I wonder if he got his own certificate.

As you waited outside, when a volunteer became available, they would ring a bell and post the number on a board.  I thought it was a little like every time a bell rings, an angel gets her wings only every time a bell rings, a pilgrim gets her certification.

Above is the certification...and they write your name in Latin.  This is not my certification but the one on the door.

A most familiar sight in Santiago.  Each time I come here, I see this man playing the bagpipes  in the same place. The pipes originated in Galacia.  This was the first time that he was accompanied by a drummer.

We are all concerned now with emptying our backpack and deciding on what time to get the taxi to head back to the real world.  I will say adios with what I have felt on every hike:

Everyone learns something on the Camino and I am no different.  Wisdom comes step by step but you cannot go through life looking only at your feet. It is important to look down so you don’t trip but you also must raise your head to see the journey you are on at that precise moment in time. It is important to look back because if you don’t, you will miss some of the most beautiful vistas of all. You don’t always know how special something is until you view it in hindsight. But if you only look backwards you will eventually trip and fall. It is important to look to each side because not only is there beautiful scenery but you gain perspective. Certainly you must look ahead to see where you are going and to set your sights on your goals. But above all you must look up and thank God for all of your wonderful blessings. All you have to do is look around to see that we are indeed some of the most blessed people on earth.

Buen Camino for wherever your trail may lead you.

Pedrouzo to Santiago

So here we are at the beginning of the trail.  Ready for our 17.2 day into the Compostela de Santiago.

Views of the trail (above)

Kind of a grumpy St James...probably like most of the new hikers feel.

These two little kittens were so funny playing.  They were about six weeks old.

This was the church at Lavacolla (lava means wash in Spanish) which supposedly has a river that the old time pilgrims bathed in before getting to Santiago.  We never saw the river.

We saw lots of variations of Camino attire.  The most bizarre one that we saw was not this long skirt but a girl wearing a pair of dress heels about 2 inches tall.  They looked like Mary Janes...part leather and part patent leather.  No surprise that she was limping.  

We ended up feeding three feral cats who were so scrawny and hungry.  We had an abundance of cheese and between the three young cats, I fed them about a pound of cheese.  They became pretty playful when they had a little food in their tummies.  I can't bear to see any animal hungry.  I suspect it must take real courage, when you are afraid of people (as these cats clearly were) to come and beg for food.  Neither Dennis, me, or any of our overindulged babies have ever been hungry  What a blessing.

This advertisement made both of us laugh.  He must be single and available.

This is the monument at Monte de Goza. According to Wikipedia "Monte do Gozo (Hill of Joy) is a hill in Santiago de Compostela, Galicia, Spain. It is known for being the place where Christian pilgrims on the Camino de Santiago (Way of St. James) get their first views of the three spires of their destination, the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela. At 370 metres (1,210 ft), it is the pilgrims' last hill and last stop before reaching the cathedral, with about an hour's walk still to go, and by tradition is where they cry out in rapture at finally seeing the end of their path."

Below is what the sign said about the monument.

We were detoured from the normal route directly into the Compostela de Santiago.  We went through this park and it was beautiful.  Once you have seen the spires of the Cathedral, it seems a long way to get there.

 I can nver wait to say my prayers in the Cathedral but you are not allowed inside with backpacks or boots so we had to go to the hotel first but as soon as I was presentable, I went to the Cathedral.   This is the main altar The whole Cathedral is under renovation.  It is very beautiful and perhaps the most ornate of the Spanish Cathedrals.

Below is right outside the Cathedral.  A favorite place for photos.  We saw many limping feet today and felt blessed that we weren't among them.  Not to say, I escaped totally.  I carried a blister on both little toes and a blister under a callus on my right foot, paired with bunions and plantar facitis.  But nothing can dim the love I have for the Caminos.

The only photo available that isn't covered in mesh and workers.  What a blessing to have completed this walk...the Primitivo...hardest of the Caminos.

One of the most fun things about hiking the last one hundred kilometers of the Camino is how many people from other countries you meet.  We have had wine for the past couple of nights with our Swedish friends Yurban (phoentic) and Michael. They work together as orderlies in a mental institution.  They are right jolly companions and always have a laugh and a smile.

Right out of the gate this morning it was pretty (below).

The below canister gave me such a laugh...the wall of wisdom...Spanish humor.  It was for the people who started with their backpack too heavy.  We saw many people with big long staffs...hiking along and I told Dennis that I thought the Spanish just resell the same ones.  After about a day of carry a big long (heavy) stick, most people abandon them. Seemed like a good idea at first!

I thought this little cottage was adorable!

Below was a bar that we passed by.  Obviously they have served a lot of beer.

Above is a tribute for someone who died, probably on the trail.  Most people who die on the trail have either a heart attack or a stroke.  We have seen many people since we started the last one hundred kilometers who look like they haven't been out of their lazy-boy in many years. When we left this morning, we saw three people who had tied their boots (new looking) to their backpack and were trying other shoes.  One man was trying to walk on the trail in a pair of cheap shower shoes that Velcro across the top.  I am guessing he didn't make the day of about thirteen miles.

Look at this cute face above!

I can't get enough of the beautiful flowers and right next to this bouquet bush was the tree below, just starting to get its fall colors.

As Dennis and I approached this rest stop (below), we heard classical music playing from the sign.  That was certainly a first and as we got closer, a voice activated speaker blasted a commercial for an albergue

We are staying tonight at a farmhouse in the middle of nowhere.  This woman picked us up at the  Casa de Concello (town hall) in O Pedruso.  This rooster must be the symbol of the town.  She will take us back in the morning to the exact same spot and we will continue on the Santiago de Compostela.

One of my favorite things about Spain and Portugal are the bread trucks that coming merrily tooting into town.  They deliver fresh bread to the households on a daily basis.  We need such a service!

The trail has definitely gotten easier than the long, steep mountains of the Camino Primitivo!  Nothing in Spain is flat so we have had a few mini-mountains to climb but they have not fazed us after the hard days.  Adios until tomorrow.

Melde to Arzua

Yesterday afternoon we visited the church, Santa Maria de Melide after we showered.  Compared to many of the churches and cathedrals we have visited, it was rather plain but I never met a church that I didn't think was beautiful. It dates back to the twelfth century.  Melide is where the Camino Frances joins with the Primitivo so the whole atmosphere changed.

Above are Scott and Robert.  Scott is from Chicago and Robert is from Northern California.  They were really fun.  Scott has 38 years as a flight attendant for American Airlines.  He and I discussed that he was in the same  token boat as when I became a police officer.  He was the most enthusiastic boy scout leader I have ever met.  Both his sons were Eagle Scouts but he continues to teach scout leader classes and go on wilderness retreats.  Scott and Robert have been friends since they were eleven.

I started off today as the grumpy hiker.  I miss those long walks of solitude and quiet.  There are hundreds of hikers, most walking the last 100 kilometers.  It has suddenly become loud and, okay and admittedly rather fun and party like. When I am not feeling grumpy.  Bars are frequent and alcohol is plentiful, as you can see from the above way marker.  Many of the markers had alcohol bottles on top and around them.

 I love these trumpet flowers!  I think they are so pretty.  They are a good six to 8 inches long.

 Above is the church of Santiago.  Dennis and I stopped and got our pilgrim passports stamped.

We are still in an agricultural area and cows are plentiful.  I think these black and white dairy cows are so pretty!

And if you are going to have cows, you must have plenty of feed corn.

Dennis and I stopped at a little bar and he ordered a Galacian empanada which are baked in big sheet pans.  He ordered an empana atún which means tuna.  It also had chopped eggs and some red bell peppers.  They are quite tasty and every country makes empanadas can trace them back to Galacia.

 We walked along the Rio off and on all day.  There is nothing more peaceful that the song of a stream.

Back to the real world!  I have not seen a lavandaría on my entire journey and I was running out of clean clothes.  The interesting thing about Spain is that the washing machine automatically adds the soap.  

We are now in Arzua with what seems like a millions hikers.  Now I see some Americans and Canadians and I have to believe that we are the fattest of the nations.  We have seen a number of people that we find it hard to believe they will make even 100 kilometers. And if you ever go on a Camino, remember that the Spaniards think it rude to clack clack clack your sticks (hiking poles) on the concrete through town.  So now we head for our afternoon glass of Albarino and Rioja!     

¡Salud!

Ferreira to Melide

After a good night's sleep, we started the day with beautiful scenery. This is an old Roman bridge near our B & B.

A Galacian hórreo.  (above) Hórreos are grain storage units and each district in Spain seem to have their own style.   In fact, in some of the newer homes, they seem to be more for decoration than actual storage. Of course, the farms still have authentic ones.

Today's hike, at 13.5 miles, was big rolling hills...more up than down.  We passed though farmlands of corn and potatoes and pumpkins.  There have been apple trees galore and many pear trees.  We saw many farmers hard at work.  It is so nice that they stop and wave to the pilgrims. 

I have been telling Dennis that we seem to always go to the top of the mountain and we did on this occasion all except over this pointy point.

A a different style of hórreo.

The long and lonely road (above). Spanish people are so very nice!  We walked by a farm house and this woman was gathering English walnuts off the ground. We waved and then she waved back and gave us six walnuts from her basket.  She would have given us more but I thanked her and indicated it was plenty.  

This poor little kitty was so hungry.  He/she was about three-four months old and I am a sucker for black and whites.  I fed it half a pork loin slice and about four slices of cheese.  I had to restock our cheese when I got to Melide.  It was worth it.

A wayside tribute to St. James.  There was a fountain behind it.  Good place for a quick prayer!

This is the original cross of the Camino de Santiago. You still see it on occasion.

The Spanish grasshoppers are bigger than ours.  This one was six to eight inches long and green as grass.

Our whole journey has been shaded by chestnut trees, some very old and gnarled.  We lost most of the American chestnut trees to a blight.  Too bad.  If you look closely at the leaves you can see the opening chestnuts.

More than once, I have seen way markers with a boot or pair of boots.  You just know that this walker had enough of his boots.  Wonder if he walked away wearing only one shoe?  I understand.  I have been struggling with a blister under my little toe for about four days.  I have considered walking the rest of the way shoeless!

Again, I repeat...the Spanish people are so nice.  This was at the end of a driveway...a lttle oasis of water, in case you were running low.

This is what the ripe chestnuts looks like.  There are a million of these on the ground.

More Hydrangeas!  Look at the beautiful color!

We see these flowers in the US in hanging baskets.  But this was growing in the ground as a huge bush.

Today was a beautiful day.  It was windy so I got my fill of that sound of the leaves through the trees. I never get tired of it, however.  We ended in Melide which is the only town where two Camino routes meet.  The Camino Primitivo, (Original Way) which is the one we are on joins the Camino Frances (French Way).  The French way is the businest and the Primitivo is the oldest route.  The downside is that tomorrow's route will be crowded because there are many people who only do the last 100 kilometers (62 miles) of the Camino Frances.  I have already spotted women two who were limping on both feet.  There were no novice hikers on the Primitivo but everyone has to start somehwere.  God willing, they will come back next year, fitter and ready for a whole Camino.

Adios!