The Finale 11/17/25

Good afternoon.  Today is my last day. My flight leaves at almost 10:00 tonight.  AAARRRGGG!

I attended the Pilgrims' Mass today.  There were two of these nuns, and I think they were from one of the Central or South American countries.  If you look closely, you can make out her hiking boots under her habit.

Today's cantor is in red, and he had a beautiful tenor voice, but I was sorry that the soprano nun, whom Dennis and I have named the Songbird, was not there. She was like an angel that had come to life.

No matter how many times I visit the Cathedral, I always notice something new. The domed ceiling above the high altar is painted almost entirely in shells.

The clergy.  Today’s mass was in Spanish, but that did not make it any less special. You don’t have to understand thed words to know that you are a part of something with spiritual essence. There is no doubt in my mind that God is present in life, if you just listen. I always feel such gratitude for the experience of the Camino, for all its hardships.

The city of Compostela de Santiago has undergone significant changes over the years.  It is no longer like Gatlinburg, with its abundance of tchotchkes and overpriced religious items made in China, but rather a town of art, culture, and fashion. When I completed my first Camino, there were no tapas bars or quality restaurants except for the Parador. Now the town teems with tapas bars open all afternoon and into the evening.  A hungry pilgrim can eat before 9:00 at night.  Whoo hoo.  Even the Parador has started opening its fine dining restaurant at 7:45.

This LLADRÓ of Saint James is less than 12 inches tall and is priced at just over $3,000 US.

There are many fine jewelry stores. I struggle with photos on my iphone.  I miss my camera.

These art pieces are entitled “Peregrinos del Mar” and the artist makes them out of driftwood that he collects during Caminos.

 

There is now a milliner, but the hats are not nearly as spectacular as Louisville’s derby hats. I learned from a speaker at one of the Woman’s Club Luncheons that a milliner actually makes the hats and does not just decorate pre-made hats.

This is a different shop.  Interesting combination of old lady bras and men’s hats. There is a joke in there somewhere.

A fabric store (for sister Sandi)

High-end women's fashion.

Even men’s Fashion

A Camino is a time of quiet contemplation, a time to turn off the cacophony of our modern existence and turn inwardly and upwardly. It is a solitary journey that one must accomplish on one’s own two feet and in the depths of one’s heart and soul.  There is beauty in that journey of self reliance and yet, one cannot do it alone. There are many Camino Angels along the path who come just when the journey becomes most dire.  

The reasons for walking the Camino de Santiago are as different as the Perigrinos who undertake such an arduous journey. On the Camino, each pilgrim is equal, letting go of pretension, status, and responsibilities. Each struggles with the same physical pain and mental uncertainty in its successful completion. It cannot be bought or gifted, and it depends solely on one's fortitude and reliance on God.  And yet the camaraderie of fellow pilgrims gives one the hope that human kindness is inherent in all of us. Each step is a step towards a common goal of letting go of past angst and beginning anew. 

Sir Walter Raleigh said it well when he wrote in the "Passionate Man’s Pilgrimage,"

Give me my scallop shell of quiet,

My staff of faith to walk upon,

My scrip of joy, immortal diet,

My bottle of salvation,

My gown of glory, hope’s true gage,

And thus I’ll take my pilgrimage.

So I will bid you Good Journey and God Bless!

Compstela de Santiago 11/16/25

 Good afternoon.  I did not attend the Pilgrims' Mass and decided to attend the one tomorrow. Actually, I ate breakfast and went back to bed. Not sick, no problem, it just felt so good to be lazy after the long walk. I will not write extensively about the cathedral because I have already done so in past blogs.  If you would like to read more about the cathedral or any of my Caminos, you can do so on my blog “blog.adventuregirl.World”.  Should you have more than one choice,  “Hiking the Camino de Santiago and other Glorious Treks” is the correct one.  You can even sign up to receive an email notification when I post. I only post when I am on an adventure.

The Santiago de Compostela is one of the most beautiful Cathedrals in the world. The word Compostela translates to "field of stars."  For the Peregrinos, it marks the end of a journey, and reaching the Cathedral is an extraordinary experience, regardless of how many Caminos one completes. For me, I always feel the presence of God, and whatever troubles me suddenly seems manageable because I know that I am never alone.

In the center of the altar is a statue of Saint James, seated and dressed as a pilgrim. It is common practice for pilgrims to line up to hug the statue from behind. I always wait in line and hug the statue.  It is generally considered respectful, and is a common practice for pilgrims to hug the statue from behind as a sign of gratitude for completing their journey. The statue behind the altar is a representation of Saint James the Great, the apostle whose tomb is believed to be buried under the cathedral.

The choir pipes are as magnificent as the high altar.  Two identical ones are facing each other.

This is the only large stained glass window in the Cathedral,

and it vibrates with color and life.

I can find nothing on this statue of Santiago.

DE LA CORTICELA HISTORY

St. Mary's Church was part of the small monastery known as "La Corticela,” dating back to the end of the 9th century. It has the title, "Antigua", which distinguishes it as the oldest Shrine to the Virgin

Mary in Spain.

2025 is a Holy Year, a jubilee year. The Jubilee is a time of pilgrimage and spiritual renewal, with the theme "Pilgrims of Hope."  The Jubilee year marks the 2,025th anniversary of the Incarnation of Jesus Christ. It emphasizes themes of hope, reconciliation, and spiritual renewal. If one completes a pilgrimage to a holy place, he/she is forgiven of all sins.  Don’t we all need that?  I said some big prayers even though I am not a Catholic.  God promises us all the same rewards as long as we believe.

I made a pit stop at the “La Garda.”  It is customary to purchase something when you need to use the bathroom, known as the baño or toilet. Look at this beautiful new bar.

Santiago Cathedral as the sun sets. 

I had the best dinner of my trip.  I splurged and dined at the famous Restaurant des Reis at the Parador de Santiago.  Not only did I have an elegant dinner, but there was a pianist playing songs that I love, such as  “Fools Rush In” on a Steinway piano. Dining in the luxurious dining room with spectacular stone arcades at the world’s oldest inn is an experience that takes you back in time. The menu includes Galician fish and meat, cheeses, empanada, mussels, scallops, variegated scallops, and sea urchin au gratin, octopus a feira (bleh), and Galician broth, among others.

I had a choice of breads and I chose the traditional one.  It was enough bread for at least three people, fresh and warm out of the oven. I ate the little hat first.

My amuse-bouche was a delicious mystery croquetta served atop homemade mayonesa. It was almost black on the inside.  Squid Ink with maybe tiny pieces of pulpo? I particularly dislike pulpo, but this was excellent. 

My first course was Vieiras en Compota de Cebolla, Jamón y Pan de Millo, or sea scallops with onion compote, ham, and corn bread.  Best dish of the trip. The ham was the Iberian pork, sliced thin and fried like bacon. The bread was not what we think of as cornbread but a buttery toast covered in caramelized onions.  It had two plump sea scallops, fresh and succulent. A dish to dream about.

I was originally going to order the wild boar stew with chestnuts, but they had substituted a pork wellington atop a pear (?) compote with pork ajus. And it was accompanied by pimentos de padrón. It was really spectacular.  I was not sorry about the substitution.

Although I was stuffed, I just couldn’t go to a restaurant of this quality and not have dessert.

I ordered the "Cebreiro" cheese ice cream and almond biscuit.  I have never had ice cream this rich and smooth.  The almond biscuit was the perfect accompaniment, with its crunchy texture and bits of toasted almonds.

Once again, I waddled off to my room.

Good Night and God Bless.

Teo to Compostela de Santiago 11/15/25

Good Afternoon.

Today started with a slight misstep.  Just as I was patting myself on the back for not losing anything,  I realized I didn’t have my phone. I was about a mile from last night’s hotel, so I reluctantly turned and headed back. Aaaaarrrggg! God really does have a sense of humor.  Then I couldn’t find my hotel. Of course, I didn’t have my phone to get directions. I wandered all about looking for the hotel. It was down some unpaved roads, and nothing looked familiar from the day before.  Plus, I couldn’t recall the name of the hotel. God sent me two German Camino Angels. The man teased me, nicely, about HOW could I forget my phone. They pulled up a map on their iPhones, and I was able to recognize it. I had walked all around it but never by it. I was only about 5 minutes away. I remembered exactly where I left it - I had set it on top of a suitcase that was waiting for transport while I adjusted my backpack. All in all, it added about 3 miles to my daily total. I was just thankful to find it.

This old piece of farming equipment sat atop a bed of flowers.  It rained off and on for the first half of the day, and then I had beautiful weather.

The elementary school.

All of the streams had turned into raging rivers.

I could see this rainbow for almost the entire walk.  Proof that God is always with us.

I found the perfect place for a little break.

This was near a school, and I like the message about diversity on the Camino.

I had quite a few trails today.

The Compostela de Santiago in the distance.

This man was playing the most beautiful music.  It was almost ethereal.  I didn’t recognize it.

At last - the cathedral.  I did not go in because you are not allowed to enter with a backpack. Tomorrow, I will probably attend the Pilgrim’s Mass, which is always a special treat.

I am staying at the historic Parador de Santiago, which was originally the Royal Hospital (Hostal dos Reis Católicos), founded in 1499 by the Catholic Monarchs to provide shelter for pilgrims on the Way of Saint James. The project was completed in 1509. The building was a functioning hospital for four centuries before it was converted into a luxury hotel in 1954. Today, it still honors its original mission by offering free meals to the first ten pilgrims who request them daily after completing their journey. It is such an interesting place to stay and I always cherish a stay here.  Tonight, when I came back from dinner, I couldn’t find the breadcrumbs I had left and wandered down the long halls looking for my room. Not a problem because there is art on every wall. (Partially from AI)

Saint James Statue in the lobby of the Parador.

My Australian friends invited me to dinner.   It was pouring when I left the hotel, but I stayed dry thanks to my Camino umbrella. They suggested the Taberna do Bisbo, which turned out to be terrific.  Our waiter allowed us to go to the tapas bar and point at the ones we wanted.  Much easier for a non-Spanish speaker than ordering from the menu.

Ann, Tony, and I shared a bottle of wine and some excellent tapas. They are so much fun and such good company. 

I first ordered these little sausages on bread.

And these Rice Crispie-looking things were brie cheese coated with macadamia nuts and deep-fried.

You can fry up an old tire, and it will taste pretty good, and these were beyond good, right into the edges of heaven.

I decided to order one more thing, so I chose these sausages.  I have consumed so many carbs, fries, and sweets since being on the Camino that I was desperate for some protein.  I brought two of them home in a box.  

Ann ordered a fruit cup that looked wonderful.

As usual, Good Night and God Bless - until tomorrow!

 

Padron to Teo 11/14/25

Good afternoon.

As I was walking out of town, I saw this “bunk hotel” and I cannot imagine a worse night's sleep than staying in a bunk hotel with a bunch of snoring people.

I specifically wanted to explore Iria Flavia because of its close link to Saint James and the area where the stone boat carrying his remains landed. God gave me such a lovely gift this morning. The Cathedral was closed, and just as I was about to leave, a woman came and unlocked the door.  She allowed me to enter the Cathedral. It was only open because a group of school children entered for a lesson. I tiptoed around so as not to disturb their lecture, but I got to see the famous Cathedral.  What a gift.

     From the signage outside the Church. "The history of Santa María de Iria dates back to   

Roman times, although the exact year when the primitive basilica was built is not known with certainty. The existence of up to two pre-Romanesque temples is defended by some authors, who argue that they parallel the development of Christianity in Galicia. Even at that time, one of them was dedicated to the Virgin Mary, as its tradition links the appearance of the Virgin Mary to the apostle Saint James, who was encouraged to preach his faith throughout the Iberian Peninsula. It was a cathedral before Santiago de Compostela. The first documentary evidence that recognizes Iria Flavia as an episcopal headquarters dates back to the 9th century. The bishopric of Iria Flavia played a fundamental role in the discovery of the apostölic sepulcher that gave the account of the discovery around 820, which will forever link the Jacobean tradition to this church.”

Saint James is the centerpiece of the gate protecting the high altar. 

The main altar at Santa María de Iria, in English, is a baroque-style altarpiece created by Miguel de Romay in a Churrigueresque (an extremely ornate and elaborate style of Spanish Baroque architecture) style.

Saint James is on the right.

The Cemiterio de Adina is attached to the Cathedral. It is a historic cemetery, known for its archaeological remains from the Roman and Swabian periods. 

Camilo José Cela is honored in all the surrounding areas.  He was a Spanish novelist, short story writer, and essayist who won the Nobel Prize in Literature in 1989 for his "rich and intensive prose". He is a key figure in the Generation of '36 movement and is known for pioneering the narrative style of tremendismo, which emphasizes violence and grotesque imagery. His notable works include the novels La familia de Pascual Duarte (The Family of Pascual Duarte) and La colmena (The Hive), as well as travel literature like Viaje a la Alcarria (Journey to La Alcarria). I think I will skip reading him.  Sometimes, I download books that I hear about on Caminos.

Camillo José Cela is buried under these olive trees.

Evidence of he old Roman water system.

I decided to wait longer for a Coke Zero stop.  Just past this sign, which warns Peregrinos that crossing the intersection is dangerous, I had proof that God has a sense of humor and never lets me get too big for my britches. I couldn’t find Teo on my trail map, but I continued fat, dumb, and happy along the Camino. I was thinking about how long my first Portuguese Camino was (about 15 years ago).  I stayed lost and kept having to ask for help from non-English-speaking locals. Of course, this lost, added many miles to my daily total.  Now, with the iPhone maps, I don’t have to be lost anymore. I figured that Teo was just small and would show up.  When I still couldn’t find it, I went to Google Maps and typed in my hotel.  BAD NEWS, Oh, my.  There was an alternate branch off the main Camino, and my hotel was on the other side of a mountain.  Had I realized this initially, I would not have had to walk all the way up that blasted mountain and back down.. As I looked up and said, respectfully, Ha Ha - very funny, I started walking up and over.  It turned out to be a lovely journey with lots of vistas, a bit of rain here and there, but nothing major. It added about three miles to my day but that is life. Unfortunately, I had to wait for a Coke Zero for the entire day.

Beautiful vistas

Finally, I reached the hotel.  Unfortuately I took a lovely photo of the stone hotel but the internet is weak here and I cannot get my photos to upload either the photos or my dinner.  

Here is the menu.  I started with a saladd with creamy dressing and walnuts. Then I had beef roast which was so incrdibly tender if fell apart. It was accompanied by buttery mashed potatoes.  And for dessert, a lemon cream, so light and tart that I wanted to lick the bowl.  I had Camino company, a lovely couple from Australia and an American woman from Santa Fe.  It was nice to have company for dinner.

So that is today.

Good Night and God Bless!