Good afternoon.
As I was walking out of town, I saw this “bunk hotel” and I cannot imagine a worse night's sleep than staying in a bunk hotel with a bunch of snoring people.
I specifically wanted to explore Iria Flavia because of its close link to Saint James and the area where the stone boat carrying his remains landed. God gave me such a lovely gift this morning. The Cathedral was closed, and just as I was about to leave, a woman came and unlocked the door. She allowed me to enter the Cathedral. It was only open because a group of school children entered for a lesson. I tiptoed around so as not to disturb their lecture, but I got to see the famous Cathedral. What a gift.
From the signage outside the Church. "The history of Santa María de Iria dates back to
Roman times, although the exact year when the primitive basilica was built is not known with certainty. The existence of up to two pre-Romanesque temples is defended by some authors, who argue that they parallel the development of Christianity in Galicia. Even at that time, one of them was dedicated to the Virgin Mary, as its tradition links the appearance of the Virgin Mary to the apostle Saint James, who was encouraged to preach his faith throughout the Iberian Peninsula. It was a cathedral before Santiago de Compostela. The first documentary evidence that recognizes Iria Flavia as an episcopal headquarters dates back to the 9th century. The bishopric of Iria Flavia played a fundamental role in the discovery of the apostölic sepulcher that gave the account of the discovery around 820, which will forever link the Jacobean tradition to this church.”
Saint James is the centerpiece of the gate protecting the high altar.
The main altar at Santa María de Iria, in English, is a baroque-style altarpiece created by Miguel de Romay in a Churrigueresque (an extremely ornate and elaborate style of Spanish Baroque architecture) style.
Saint James is on the right.
The Cemiterio de Adina is attached to the Cathedral. It is a historic cemetery, known for its archaeological remains from the Roman and Swabian periods.
Camilo José Cela is honored in all the surrounding areas. He was a Spanish novelist, short story writer, and essayist who won the Nobel Prize in Literature in 1989 for his "rich and intensive prose". He is a key figure in the Generation of '36 movement and is known for pioneering the narrative style of tremendismo, which emphasizes violence and grotesque imagery. His notable works include the novels La familia de Pascual Duarte (The Family of Pascual Duarte) and La colmena (The Hive), as well as travel literature like Viaje a la Alcarria (Journey to La Alcarria). I think I will skip reading him. Sometimes, I download books that I hear about on Caminos.
Camillo José Cela is buried under these olive trees.
Evidence of he old Roman water system.
I decided to wait longer for a Coke Zero stop. Just past this sign, which warns Peregrinos that crossing the intersection is dangerous, I had proof that God has a sense of humor and never lets me get too big for my britches. I couldn’t find Teo on my trail map, but I continued fat, dumb, and happy along the Camino. I was thinking about how long my first Portuguese Camino was (about 15 years ago). I stayed lost and kept having to ask for help from non-English-speaking locals. Of course, this lost, added many miles to my daily total. Now, with the iPhone maps, I don’t have to be lost anymore. I figured that Teo was just small and would show up. When I still couldn’t find it, I went to Google Maps and typed in my hotel. BAD NEWS, Oh, my. There was an alternate branch off the main Camino, and my hotel was on the other side of a mountain. Had I realized this initially, I would not have had to walk all the way up that blasted mountain and back down.. As I looked up and said, respectfully, Ha Ha - very funny, I started walking up and over. It turned out to be a lovely journey with lots of vistas, a bit of rain here and there, but nothing major. It added about three miles to my day but that is life. Unfortunately, I had to wait for a Coke Zero for the entire day.
Beautiful vistas
Finally, I reached the hotel. Unfortuately I took a lovely photo of the stone hotel but the internet is weak here and I cannot get my photos to upload either the photos or my dinner.
Here is the menu. I started with a saladd with creamy dressing and walnuts. Then I had beef roast which was so incrdibly tender if fell apart. It was accompanied by buttery mashed potatoes. And for dessert, a lemon cream, so light and tart that I wanted to lick the bowl. I had Camino company, a lovely couple from Australia and an American woman from Santa Fe. It was nice to have company for dinner.
So that is today.
Good Night and God Bless!
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