Monday, November 10, 2025

Redondella to Ponferada11/9/25


Good morning.  It is a great day to hit the trail.  A bit colder than it has been, but that is perfect for hiking.


This little crtoon figure is a common sight on the Camino.


A bit of low hanging clouds.


Up and up, into the mountains I go.


Today, I headed inland, so I no longer had the ease of walking flat along the Atlantic Ocean.


The trail has lots of markers.  On Sundays, the trails are more crowded with people and cyclists. Plus, I am seeing more people hiking.  You can get a certificate of accomplishment if you walk the last 100 kilometers (62 miles).  The bad thing about that is there were several gaggles of people, and they don’t know trail etiquette. It is only polite to step over and let quicker hikers pass; instead, they were four and six wide, blocking the whole trail, but such a minor complaint.


Such a cute little cafe for a mid-morning break.


This cafe was most generous with its tapas.  The practice originates from using a slice of bread or meat to "cover" a drink to keep flies out. The Spanish word for cover is tapar. All these hikes in Spain, and I did not know this. This was a different empanada.  The outside crust was made of cornmeal and it was filled with that good Spanish tuna. I am a good Southern girl, and I hate sweet cornbread. If I want cake, I will order cake. This cornbread mixture had no sweetness to it. Quite tasty.



Locals along the trail really support the Peregrinos.  This was on a garage door.  I waved to the owner and he pointed to a different way.  I was about to go down a wrong path.


I had to cross this wide river on a very narrow bridge.  To quote Johnny Carson: How narrow was it? It was so narrow that cars had to wait for hikers to finish crossing.


A beautiful, mysterious door for Mary P.


I am seeing beautiful colors here, too.


It always makes me sad to see one of these memorials, especially of such a young woman. Over and over, I have read that hiking the Caminos is one of the safest things a woman can do alone.  Of course, she could have died somewhere else, and her friends memorialized her on the trail.


This is the first time I have seen horses on the trail. There was a man, too. They were just out riding and not traveling to Santiago.  Some people ride the Camino (Michele and Terri?) on horseback, and I have seen donkeys a few times but not on this trip.


As of today, I have started to see lots of stands selling tourist items. If you are buying a shell now, you just started the hike. More indication that most of the grounds of eight or ten are only walking the last 100 kilometers. The Peregrino, who was talking to the purveyor of such fine items, was not just starting.  He caught up with me and said that the man at the stand told him to take the left-hand turn at the church.  It was supposedly more scenic. So I did.  BIG mistake.  After about a mile, the trail ended, and it didn’t even show on my phone map.  I had to walk the mile back. And who did I meet but the guy who translated for me?  At least, I saved him a good half a mile.


Oops - someone left their glasses, and they were prescription ones.  


This bridge was wider.


I ate dinner at my hotel, which is a lovely place to stay and dine.  My primer plato (first course) was the Lentejas Estofadas.  These were some of the best lentils I have ever had, so well seasoned with chunks of sausage, carrots, and onions.  I was full after the lentils, but I bravely continued.


My entrada was Espaguetis á la Boloñesa or Spaghetti Bolognese. It was different from Italian Bolognese.  It was more tomato-y and less ground meaty with thicker-grated fresh mozzarella.  I actually preferred this version.  I got a box and will finish it off for a late lunch.


Of course, I had to have dessert.  What would I write about?  My server recommended the Panna Cotta so I took his advice. It was delicious and had a dollop of mango puree in the center.

As I waddle off to bed, Good Night and God Bless.
















 























































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