Thursday, November 13, 2025

Padron 4/13/25

 

Padrón is not only a town on the Camino de Santiago (also known as the Portuguese Way) but also the heart of the legend of Santiago. The city is situated at the estuary of the Ulla and Sar rivers, near Iria Flavia, where the riverbank is believed to be where the boat carrying the body of the Apostle would have landed.


The “Bridge of Saint James" in Padrón refers to the Ponte de Santiago, a 19th-century bridge built on the site of older structures. It is a significant crossing over the Sar River connecting many of the historical sites relating to Saint James.


Looking down the river.


This is the Parish Church of Santiago de Padrón, which contains historical items related to Saint James.
Some versions of the story of Saint James describe a concrete boat being driven by the wind, while others describe it being guided by an angel. Still, all agree that the boat, containing the body of Saint James, the Greater, and apostle to Jesus, would have arrived at a port near present-day Compostela. I will be at Port Flavia tomorrow.

"A central element in all these legends is the existence of a stone altar, “pedrón” or “padrón”, on which the body of Santiago would have been transferred. This altar or sarcophagus is what gives the present town of Padrón its name. This part of the legend is also supported by the existence in Padrón of an altar of Roman origin, probably dedicated to Neptune, god of the waters, who was identified with the ark that had carried the remains of the Apostle Santiago. The altar is currently preserved and can be seen in the parish church of Santiago de Padrón.
 

On one of the altars, there was  Apostle James on his white horse. From AI, " The image of Saint James on a white horse is a legend from the Reconquista, where he is depicted as the warrior saint Santiago Matamoros (Saint James the Moor-slayer). According to legend, he miraculously appeared on a white horse to aid the Christian army in the Battle of Clavijo in 844 AD, helping them defeat the Muslim Moors. This story helped consolidate the Christian territories and established James as the patron saint of Spain." 


 Later, after James's death, two of his disciples, Theodore and Athanasius, transported his body to Galicia by boat, according to history. 


Santiago preaching in Padron.


Of all the Jacobean places in Padrón, the oldest is Mount San Gregorio, also known as Mount Santiaguiño, because according to tradition, Santiago would have preached there on his first visit to Spain. Legend or not, the truth is that some archaeologists have found vestiges of an early Christian sanctuary. This tradition is still maintained today, since every 25th July a pilgrimage is celebrated there in honour of Santiago.


I should have said it was steep up to Mount San Gregorio


And up


And up some more. Santiaguiño do Monte is an archaeological site that can be dated to the Iron Age (3rd century B.C). According to tradition, this place was one of the holy places where Saint James preached in the year 40 A.D.  I had to come back down these wet steps, and they were slick as goose spit.  There was a rail, but it had spiderwebs on it.  Anyone who knows me knows that I am scared of spiders.  The only time in my marriage that I slapped the "woman card" flat out on the table was when we were newlyweds and there was a giant spider.  Dennis told me he didn’t like spiders either, and I told him I didn’t care; he was the man.  Ever since, my brave husband has taken care of all the spiders.


The exact construction date of the  Santiaguiño hermitage 
is unknown.  It only has one altar made of stone, dominated by the image of the Apostle Saint
James.  The Hermitage is closed except for two days a year because pilgrims have rubbed his fingers and hands away. 


A photocopy of a photo of the altar.


The font is a place of cleanliness, purification, and forgiveness of sin. That is how it was viewed at the apex of pilgrimages to Padrón. The monument also has several stairs where pilgrims once knelt as they arrived. Then, they would thread their bodies through the three holes in the rocks known as hell, heaven, and purgatory. Popular tradition also holds that this is the location of the grotto where the apostle hid from his persecutors. It is said to be the place where he tapped his staff three times to get water to spring out and quench the thirst of a gentile woman.


Ten rocks make up an ensemble crowned with the figure of the apostle preaching on a pedestal. There are several crosses engraved in front, as well as an inscription with multiple interpretations, including “Alms for James the Great” and “Alms for Jesus and Mary.”  It was humbling to walk up those stairs and stand at the place where Saint James preached so many centuries ago. It was like reaching into living history. 



The inscription is from a Roman altar dedicated to the god Neptune.


Pretty cool rig to pick up leaves, first it grabbed a bunch of them, and placed them in a sack. By the end of the pile, it picked up the last leaf by itself.


In Padrón near the Ponte de Santiago, there is the Fountain of the Carme. It consists of three figures; in the inset is Virxe das Dores, patroness of women in labour. In the central figure, is the depiction of Santiago being brought to this region by his disciples. 

At the top, there is a portrayal of Queen Lupa being baptised by the Santiago. Her name alludes to her cunning, and she is portrayed as a roadblock to the disciples of the Apostle James. According to the story, after their arrival in Iria Flavia, James's disciples Theodore and Athanasius approached the queen to request a place to bury James's body. Lupa chose to trick the disciples and sent them to the King of Duio with the intent of having them killed. The king imprisons them, but they are freed by an angel and return to the queen. Then, according to the Golden Legend, Lupa attempted to deceive them and sent them to Mount Ilicino to collect some of her oxen to carry materials for building the tomb. She did not tell them that a cave in the mountain was the entrance to hell, guarded by a dragon. However, the presence of the holy cross protected the disciples from harm. Upon witnessing the miraculous events, Lupa converted to Christianity and helped build the apostle's tomb in Libredon


I bought an umbrella today, and it has figures from the Portuguese Camino on it.  It might as well be something memorable from the journey, rather than just an ordinary umbrella.


Spain is big into the lottery.  Just about every block, you see one of these little stands, and often there is a line waiting to purchase tickets.


Dinner was a simple affair.  I ordered two appetizers, the pimentos de padróne and the croquettes.   Both yummy.  Tonight, I was smart enough to bring my little plastic container, and I have a whole passel of peppers for tomorrow on the trail.  


For dessert, I ordered the cheesecake with caramel sauce.  I was too full to eat more than a couple of bites, but it was smooth, creamy, and rich, just as cheesecake should be.

I bid you good night and God Bless!














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