Saint John Pied-du-Port

Bonjour! It is my last day of hiking.  I started this morning grumpy and sad.  I couldn't decide if I was feeling that way because I hated for it to end or if I just wanted to see the finish line.  I'll stick with "because I always hate for the journey to end." Turns out, when I finally found a place that had Diet Pepsi, late in the hike, I immediately felt better.  I don't drink coffee (not against it morally, just don't like the taste) and must have needed the caffeine.

Today was not nearly as tough of a hike as yesterday and it was only 13.4 miles (the book said 10.6 but they lied).  Still, the scenery was beautiful and I didn't have to work so hard for the views. 

Now, this was an obstacle!  I had to walk up in the tall grass to get around him.

So many cats--so little time!

Basque houses are almost always white with a red roof and red shutters.  They look so quaint when you see a whole village of them. Every great once in a while, I see a house with black shutters but not often.

I took this photo for the bottom showing the bees.  I never had a problem with them but they were everywhere.  Now I know how important bees are to our survival because they pollinate our fruit trees. I used to think they were pests but no more.  Save the Bees! 

This shepherd was herding them on a bicycle.  I stepped aside and they completely surrounded me.  They had cute little spotted faces.

More views.  It was sunny and clear today.

Look at this pretty face! Some babies need to nurse and help this old girl out.

A typical Basque house. They almost always seem to be square.

Another Chalet.  There were four of these towers, one on each corner.  Most unusual and very castle looking.

The Basque churches are vastly different with white sides and red trim.  Taller steeples.  This one was particularly interesting because the steeple was black tile(?) and stone.

The altars are quiet pretty--not as showy as the earlier altars but beautiful in their own way.

And there seems to be beautiful wood in each of the Basque churches.

Mutt and Jeff? They posed nicely for a photo and then the brown one bit the spotted one on the rear and they both headed out to the pasture at a gallop.

From a distance, I couldn't figure out what this was. It is a disposal site for old batteries.  What a clever idea.  I never know what to do with batteries.

The French have to drive to these sites to dump their trash and they are very picky about recycling. Evidently, there is no trash pickup.  If only we were so good (and that "we" certainly includes me).

The beautiful gates of Saint Jean-Pied-du-Port. My destination point! Here quicker than I could imagine...like life!

My total mileage (give or take a mile or two) is 510.6.  Whew!  Just looking at that number makes me tired and yet, I could certainly be up for walking all the way to the Compostela, another 500 miles.

Dennis and I were having a glass of wine and people watching.  I was very smugly (shame on me) pointing out the new boots and clean clothes..all ironed and creased.  I look like I escaped from the Goodwill Box at a homeless shelter. My nose is sunburned and I have a farmer tan.  Those newbies won't look so pristine after the trip over the Pyrenees but if they don't give up they are in for the journey of their lives.

These poor old boots will find their final resting place here in Saint-Jean.  They have certainly been good to me!

You have a lot of time to reflect when you hike.  I kept coming back to the point that a long Camino is a lot like life.  You start out green and need a lot of babying.  You want someone to take your hand and show you the way but you are still on your own. You don't understand the markers and have to learn the trail language. And it changes with each and every different Camino. There are so many things you have to learn. You learn humility when you have to ask for help (over and over).  No one does this journey alone. You learn perseverance because you have to put one foot in front of the other and just keep going, in spite of injuries, blisters and sore muscles.  You make trail friends, some for a short time and some for the whole journey. Often the scenery is beautiful and sometimes it is just mud and rain. You make mistakes. You learn to treasure your meager belongings because each and everything in your pack is important and there is no replacement along the trail.  They are not disposable. You get off the trail and lose your way, sometimes for miles and sometimes for just a few steps.  And just when you think "I've got this," you get on the wrong trail again. You learn to have a sense of humor, like when you are on the toilet and the light goes out and you don't know where the paper is or where the light switch is.  You learn to ask for divine guidance, often in a semi-panic.  It is amazing how often that prayer is answered with just one person or sign that makes all of the difference.  You fight exhaustion and weather and yourself--most of all yourself. But in the end, you would do it all over again.  You see the journey, not as perfect but a job well done. And lastly, when you head home there is nothing more important than looking up and thanking God for the experience.

So we are off to Biarritz for two days and then home.  God bless and keep you all!

Aroue to Larceveau

Dennis and I had a wonderful dinner last night at this cute little restaurant.  He had fish and I had an omelet. 

Look at this little chalet...none too shabby!

I heard this pitiful little bleat and right after I heard a pretty loud Baaaa and the baby came flying to Mom, almost knocking her down.  He was a hungry baby.

One of the many bridges I have crossed on this trip.

Graves here are so different from what we are used to. I think they are family graves.  I have seen numerous florist shops and they sell these plaques that people place on the graves to denote different people and their life span.  Some of the graves had ten or twelve plaques on them.

Dried corn for the livestock.  Looks like this one is getting pretty low but the planting of corn has just begun.

This was a very long uphill, photo snapped looking backward.  It was so long and steep that when I got to the top...I wanted to plant a USA flag and claim it as a climb---like Edmund Hilary and Everest.

The views today were spectacular.  I would have walked this entire Camino just for today.

Just so beautiful.

This little hut was at the high point for today.

This tribute to the pelérins was also at the top.

This is a closeup of the center showing a pilgrim. 

We are high in the French Basque country and those are the Pyrenees in the background. About 15-20 years ago the Spanish Basques were trying to secede from Spain and be their own country.  Many cars bombs, etc.  The Spanish wanted the French Basques to join them but the French Basques were more laid back and happy with life. It has been calm in this area for some great number of years.

The writing on this is in the Basque Language which looks similar to the Welsh language or the Celtic language.

Can't resist a good-looking cocky rooster. He was strutting his stuff.

Another monument to the pilgrims in the Basque Language.  Every street sign is written in both French and Basque. The Basque region not only have their own language but their own food, architecture, and customs.

The white churches of yesterday and today are indicative of the Basques.

Another giant uphill climb and it looked like I was going to reach the end of the world.  Felt like it too!

The entire day was spent among farmland with the beautiful Pyrenees background. And I was in the big mountains.  Not a flat spot the whole day. Many big ups and big downs. Buns of steel!

At about mile 13, I came across this little bar and they had Coca-cola light.  OMG!  Did it taste good! And I had the opportunity for a real bathroom.

Look at this little porker.  He was a pink pig.  He ran to the fence, in hopes that I had something to feed him.  He is after all, a pig...always hungry.

I honestly don't know how someone can stand on a mountaintop and not feel the presence of God.  There is such beauty from the top of the world that it couldn't just happen without divine intervention. Some people love the ocean with all of its power and mystery but I am the happiest on top of a mountain.

Right next to my hotel was this beauty.  It was waxed within an inch of its life.

Dennis decided to walk out on the trail to meet me but we missed each other so he sat waiting on the trail and I sat waiting in the room.  Oooops.  At least we were both here in time for a happy hour glass of wine.

So until tomorrow.  Bon Soir!

Naverrenx to Aroue

Greetings from France!

The Musketeers were from this area and the local people are very proud of this fact. I saw this advertisement on my way out of town this morning.  They really existed.  Alexandre Dumas' swashbuckling epic of chivalry, honor, and daring-do was set in France during the 1620s.  Dumas started the legend and then Disney and Hollywood turned it into an international phenomenon. I read that the story of the Three Musketeers was the most popular book of historical fiction that was ever published.

Don't I look just gorgeous in my cropped pants, backpack and sporting stringy hair.  These two statues of pilgrims are popular photo ops.

The bridge leading out of Navarrenx.

For all you horsey types.  Horses are very popular from races to hunter-jumper to steeplechase.  I have even seen a poster for the Rodeo.

I just liked this house.

And I liked the grand manor house also.

An interesting resting place for pilgrims. It led to a Gité (Refugio).

Incredible scenery today with the Pyrenees in the background.

This seems to be the style of churches in this area.

I particularly loved the ceiling above the altar.  

Beautiful scenery plus puddles left from the previous day's rain.  No rain today!  Unfortunately, I forgot my sunscreen. So I officially am a red-neck.  

The Pyrenees in the background and many ups and downs. It was a pant-pant, gasp-gasp kinda day.  I can really tell that I am near Saint Jean Pied-du-port.

Such a beautiful river.  I saw a sign for white water rafting.

What is not to like about this photo.  I was rewarded for my hard work when I just looked around.

The cat of the day!

There are several axioms about hiking that I have figured out for myself after many years on the trail and they all held true today.

First: If there are two cars/trucks going in opposite directions on a highway, they always meet at the hiker.

Second: If you come to a fork in the road, the correct direction will always be the steeper way up.

And last:  Never follow another hiker because they may be lost or just going to a different destination.  Read the markers for yourself.  The church above is the perfect example.  I was following the trail signs and I missed one.  I was starting to think maybe I had missed a marker so I walked back a little way and saw two hikers coming in the same direction.  SOOOOO I thought, well I must be okay because they are following me.  Surely, they read the signs. The trail kept getting more and more dicey with high weeds. Finally, the three of us decided that it couldn't be right. We turned around to go back and there were four hikers following them.  All of us were wrong.  After about forty-five minutes, we were all right back where we started.  Close to this church, only a little more tired and a lot muddier.  And as tall as the weeds were, I could have chiggers, spider bites, ticks (checked for those) and poison ivy.  Let's hope not!

So although today was a measly 14.4 miles, it is all relative.  14.4 miles of mountains is a lot longer than 14.4 miles of flat.

So happy day to all of you...may your journey be short and flat and full of scenery!