London 4/21/28 & 4/22/26

Greetings from London.  I am staying at the Park Grande - Hyde Park.  Not as posh as it sounds, but very nice.  I have never stayed in this area.  It has many beautiful residences.

The first church that I saw was the Saint James Parish Church.  It was a good omen, but I assure you, there have been no saints in my background.

Art.

Art

Art?

Last night, I ate at the Sawyers Arms.  It was three stories and packed to the gills.

I had this fun little perch with just one table.  I enjoyed watching the people from above.  I wondered if the bartender thought I couldn’t behave, so she put me in timeout.  I was too tired after the long flight to act up.

For dinner, I chose the Duck Hash, a slow-cooked duck confit that was scrumptious.  I am not crazy about duck, but I love duck confit.  It is rare to get a true confit, but this was incredible. If you have never had it, imagine the best juicy pork roast on steroids - not gamey at all. The duck was accompanied by cubed potatoes, pan-fried with bacon and cabbage.  It was served over an orange-and-black currant coulis and topped with a fried egg.  The dish absolutely hit a home run.  I am starting off well.

Today I wandered around and took in the neighborhood - a little more than I meant to.  I wandered so far from my hotel that it took me more than an hour to get back.

This describes exactly how I felt when I got back to my room.

I decided to have Indian food for dinner.  I think England has the best Indian food anywhere. 

I chose Tandor Chicken Balti and rice. According to the menu, Balti dishes are cooked in a cast-iron Kashmiri pan with chopped ginger, garlic, ground Indian spices, including exotic herbs, creating a thicker, richer, more distinct flavor. Balti dishes can be prepared mild, medium, or hot according to individual preferences.” I love hot spicy food, but if you order it hot, you will need the fire department.  I chose the medium. I also ordered the cheese naan (bread).  You must have bread to soak up the savory gravy-like sauce.  This dinner also hit a home run.

Tomorrow, I take the train to Chester, Wales, to start my hiking adventure.

Good night and God Bless.

The Finale 11/17/25

Good afternoon.  Today is my last day. My flight leaves at almost 10:00 tonight.  AAARRRGGG!

I attended the Pilgrims' Mass today.  There were two of these nuns, and I think they were from one of the Central or South American countries.  If you look closely, you can make out her hiking boots under her habit.

Today's cantor is in red, and he had a beautiful tenor voice, but I was sorry that the soprano nun, whom Dennis and I have named the Songbird, was not there. She was like an angel that had come to life.

No matter how many times I visit the Cathedral, I always notice something new. The domed ceiling above the high altar is painted almost entirely in shells.

The clergy.  Today’s mass was in Spanish, but that did not make it any less special. You don’t have to understand thed words to know that you are a part of something with spiritual essence. There is no doubt in my mind that God is present in life, if you just listen. I always feel such gratitude for the experience of the Camino, for all its hardships.

The city of Compostela de Santiago has undergone significant changes over the years.  It is no longer like Gatlinburg, with its abundance of tchotchkes and overpriced religious items made in China, but rather a town of art, culture, and fashion. When I completed my first Camino, there were no tapas bars or quality restaurants except for the Parador. Now the town teems with tapas bars open all afternoon and into the evening.  A hungry pilgrim can eat before 9:00 at night.  Whoo hoo.  Even the Parador has started opening its fine dining restaurant at 7:45.

This LLADRÓ of Saint James is less than 12 inches tall and is priced at just over $3,000 US.

There are many fine jewelry stores. I struggle with photos on my iphone.  I miss my camera.

These art pieces are entitled “Peregrinos del Mar” and the artist makes them out of driftwood that he collects during Caminos.

 

There is now a milliner, but the hats are not nearly as spectacular as Louisville’s derby hats. I learned from a speaker at one of the Woman’s Club Luncheons that a milliner actually makes the hats and does not just decorate pre-made hats.

This is a different shop.  Interesting combination of old lady bras and men’s hats. There is a joke in there somewhere.

A fabric store (for sister Sandi)

High-end women's fashion.

Even men’s Fashion

A Camino is a time of quiet contemplation, a time to turn off the cacophony of our modern existence and turn inwardly and upwardly. It is a solitary journey that one must accomplish on one’s own two feet and in the depths of one’s heart and soul.  There is beauty in that journey of self reliance and yet, one cannot do it alone. There are many Camino Angels along the path who come just when the journey becomes most dire.  

The reasons for walking the Camino de Santiago are as different as the Perigrinos who undertake such an arduous journey. On the Camino, each pilgrim is equal, letting go of pretension, status, and responsibilities. Each struggles with the same physical pain and mental uncertainty in its successful completion. It cannot be bought or gifted, and it depends solely on one's fortitude and reliance on God.  And yet the camaraderie of fellow pilgrims gives one the hope that human kindness is inherent in all of us. Each step is a step towards a common goal of letting go of past angst and beginning anew. 

Sir Walter Raleigh said it well when he wrote in the "Passionate Man’s Pilgrimage,"

Give me my scallop shell of quiet,

My staff of faith to walk upon,

My scrip of joy, immortal diet,

My bottle of salvation,

My gown of glory, hope’s true gage,

And thus I’ll take my pilgrimage.

So I will bid you Good Journey and God Bless!

Compstela de Santiago 11/16/25

 Good afternoon.  I did not attend the Pilgrims' Mass and decided to attend the one tomorrow. Actually, I ate breakfast and went back to bed. Not sick, no problem, it just felt so good to be lazy after the long walk. I will not write extensively about the cathedral because I have already done so in past blogs.  If you would like to read more about the cathedral or any of my Caminos, you can do so on my blog “blog.adventuregirl.World”.  Should you have more than one choice,  “Hiking the Camino de Santiago and other Glorious Treks” is the correct one.  You can even sign up to receive an email notification when I post. I only post when I am on an adventure.

The Santiago de Compostela is one of the most beautiful Cathedrals in the world. The word Compostela translates to "field of stars."  For the Peregrinos, it marks the end of a journey, and reaching the Cathedral is an extraordinary experience, regardless of how many Caminos one completes. For me, I always feel the presence of God, and whatever troubles me suddenly seems manageable because I know that I am never alone.

In the center of the altar is a statue of Saint James, seated and dressed as a pilgrim. It is common practice for pilgrims to line up to hug the statue from behind. I always wait in line and hug the statue.  It is generally considered respectful, and is a common practice for pilgrims to hug the statue from behind as a sign of gratitude for completing their journey. The statue behind the altar is a representation of Saint James the Great, the apostle whose tomb is believed to be buried under the cathedral.

The choir pipes are as magnificent as the high altar.  Two identical ones are facing each other.

This is the only large stained glass window in the Cathedral,

and it vibrates with color and life.

I can find nothing on this statue of Santiago.

DE LA CORTICELA HISTORY

St. Mary's Church was part of the small monastery known as "La Corticela,” dating back to the end of the 9th century. It has the title, "Antigua", which distinguishes it as the oldest Shrine to the Virgin

Mary in Spain.

2025 is a Holy Year, a jubilee year. The Jubilee is a time of pilgrimage and spiritual renewal, with the theme "Pilgrims of Hope."  The Jubilee year marks the 2,025th anniversary of the Incarnation of Jesus Christ. It emphasizes themes of hope, reconciliation, and spiritual renewal. If one completes a pilgrimage to a holy place, he/she is forgiven of all sins.  Don’t we all need that?  I said some big prayers even though I am not a Catholic.  God promises us all the same rewards as long as we believe.

I made a pit stop at the “La Garda.”  It is customary to purchase something when you need to use the bathroom, known as the baño or toilet. Look at this beautiful new bar.

Santiago Cathedral as the sun sets. 

I had the best dinner of my trip.  I splurged and dined at the famous Restaurant des Reis at the Parador de Santiago.  Not only did I have an elegant dinner, but there was a pianist playing songs that I love, such as  “Fools Rush In” on a Steinway piano. Dining in the luxurious dining room with spectacular stone arcades at the world’s oldest inn is an experience that takes you back in time. The menu includes Galician fish and meat, cheeses, empanada, mussels, scallops, variegated scallops, and sea urchin au gratin, octopus a feira (bleh), and Galician broth, among others.

I had a choice of breads and I chose the traditional one.  It was enough bread for at least three people, fresh and warm out of the oven. I ate the little hat first.

My amuse-bouche was a delicious mystery croquetta served atop homemade mayonesa. It was almost black on the inside.  Squid Ink with maybe tiny pieces of pulpo? I particularly dislike pulpo, but this was excellent. 

My first course was Vieiras en Compota de Cebolla, Jamón y Pan de Millo, or sea scallops with onion compote, ham, and corn bread.  Best dish of the trip. The ham was the Iberian pork, sliced thin and fried like bacon. The bread was not what we think of as cornbread but a buttery toast covered in caramelized onions.  It had two plump sea scallops, fresh and succulent. A dish to dream about.

I was originally going to order the wild boar stew with chestnuts, but they had substituted a pork wellington atop a pear (?) compote with pork ajus. And it was accompanied by pimentos de padrón. It was really spectacular.  I was not sorry about the substitution.

Although I was stuffed, I just couldn’t go to a restaurant of this quality and not have dessert.

I ordered the "Cebreiro" cheese ice cream and almond biscuit.  I have never had ice cream this rich and smooth.  The almond biscuit was the perfect accompaniment, with its crunchy texture and bits of toasted almonds.

Once again, I waddled off to my room.

Good Night and God Bless.

Teo to Compostela de Santiago 11/15/25

Good Afternoon.

Today started with a slight misstep.  Just as I was patting myself on the back for not losing anything,  I realized I didn’t have my phone. I was about a mile from last night’s hotel, so I reluctantly turned and headed back. Aaaaarrrggg! God really does have a sense of humor.  Then I couldn’t find my hotel. Of course, I didn’t have my phone to get directions. I wandered all about looking for the hotel. It was down some unpaved roads, and nothing looked familiar from the day before.  Plus, I couldn’t recall the name of the hotel. God sent me two German Camino Angels. The man teased me, nicely, about HOW could I forget my phone. They pulled up a map on their iPhones, and I was able to recognize it. I had walked all around it but never by it. I was only about 5 minutes away. I remembered exactly where I left it - I had set it on top of a suitcase that was waiting for transport while I adjusted my backpack. All in all, it added about 3 miles to my daily total. I was just thankful to find it.

This old piece of farming equipment sat atop a bed of flowers.  It rained off and on for the first half of the day, and then I had beautiful weather.

The elementary school.

All of the streams had turned into raging rivers.

I could see this rainbow for almost the entire walk.  Proof that God is always with us.

I found the perfect place for a little break.

This was near a school, and I like the message about diversity on the Camino.

I had quite a few trails today.

The Compostela de Santiago in the distance.

This man was playing the most beautiful music.  It was almost ethereal.  I didn’t recognize it.

At last - the cathedral.  I did not go in because you are not allowed to enter with a backpack. Tomorrow, I will probably attend the Pilgrim’s Mass, which is always a special treat.

I am staying at the historic Parador de Santiago, which was originally the Royal Hospital (Hostal dos Reis Católicos), founded in 1499 by the Catholic Monarchs to provide shelter for pilgrims on the Way of Saint James. The project was completed in 1509. The building was a functioning hospital for four centuries before it was converted into a luxury hotel in 1954. Today, it still honors its original mission by offering free meals to the first ten pilgrims who request them daily after completing their journey. It is such an interesting place to stay and I always cherish a stay here.  Tonight, when I came back from dinner, I couldn’t find the breadcrumbs I had left and wandered down the long halls looking for my room. Not a problem because there is art on every wall. (Partially from AI)

Saint James Statue in the lobby of the Parador.

My Australian friends invited me to dinner.   It was pouring when I left the hotel, but I stayed dry thanks to my Camino umbrella. They suggested the Taberna do Bisbo, which turned out to be terrific.  Our waiter allowed us to go to the tapas bar and point at the ones we wanted.  Much easier for a non-Spanish speaker than ordering from the menu.

Ann, Tony, and I shared a bottle of wine and some excellent tapas. They are so much fun and such good company. 

I first ordered these little sausages on bread.

And these Rice Crispie-looking things were brie cheese coated with macadamia nuts and deep-fried.

You can fry up an old tire, and it will taste pretty good, and these were beyond good, right into the edges of heaven.

I decided to order one more thing, so I chose these sausages.  I have consumed so many carbs, fries, and sweets since being on the Camino that I was desperate for some protein.  I brought two of them home in a box.  

Ann ordered a fruit cup that looked wonderful.

As usual, Good Night and God Bless - until tomorrow!