Conwy to Bangor 4/30 - 5/1/26

Good morning, all! 

This is the lovely couple, Jo & Henrique Fino, who own the Castlebank Hotel. One of my favorite 

B & B’s ever.

The view out of Conwy. At breakfast, I overheard some men talking about the mountain.  The one had attempted to reach the summit, but the winds were 55 miles per hour at the top, and he had to turn back.  He said the winds were even stronger today. He also said that it almost knocked him off his feet. He had about 75+ pounds on me.  I was planning the mountain route, but I changed my mind and took the coastal route. Not totally successfully.

That is a lot of babies for these girls to manage.

The trail looks easy, but it is not.  Soft sand that slowed me down and killed my thighs.

See that pile of rocks at the end. It looks small, but it was not. It was about 20 feet tall, and the trail markers and my online map definitely led me there. I climbed about six feet up and decided that it was too dangerous. It was very windy, and the tide was coming in. I had no guarantee that if I made it to the top, I would be able to continue on.  And if I didn’t, the descent would be ever trickier.  After Switzerland, I did not want to be rescued again. I turned around and started back. I thought I was going to have to walk all the way back to Conwy.  I had already walked about two miles in the soft sand, and the thought of another equal distance back on that sand did not thrill me.  Plus, I HATE backtracking!  After I had trudged (grumbling and swearing) back about half a mile, I saw a woman walking her dog.  She told me how to get to a paved path that wasn’t on my map.

As it turns out, I made an excellent decision.  This is looking down on the other side of the rocks, nothing but seawater slapping the rock face, and it looks pretty deep. The other factor is the dangerous currents in this area.

Then, I came across this sign. It would have been helpful to have it earlier. In case you can not read it says, 

Danger

There are areas of soft sand

on this beach.

Beware of being cut off

by tides

A later view of the coastline.

Aren’t the babies cute?

I stopped here and had a sandwich.  I was at about 10 miles.  

A skate park. Since it was a school day, there were no skaters.

Graffiti seems to follow skaters, and the graffiti is usually dark or rebellious.  There were about 10 similar panels.

I did have to walk a little way up the side of the mountain.  These giant bolts are keeping the rocks from sliding down. I have never seen these before.

I can’t pronounce the English name, much less the Welsh name.

Clever painting on this horse trailer.  I think Janet needs one.

A beautiful estate in LLANFAIRFECHAN, comon pronunciation.

Look in his backpack!  It is a little dog.  

From the sign:

"Spinnies Aberogwen's series of lagoons and surrounding habitat provide shelter and food for wildfowl, waders, and smaller birds, especially during the autumn and spring migrations - the neighboring estuary of the River Owen and the tidal mudflats of Traeth Lafan attract some amazing species. Tall, graceful stands of common reed provide sheltered nest sites for moorhen as well as an excellent place to watch grey heron and little egret hunting! For much of the year, the brightly coloured kingfisher is a familiar and well-loved sight. Regular work parties help maintain the bird hides and footpaths, whilst the provision of bird food at the hides is supported by many individuals and local organizations."

The River Owen

This tree was at least 15 feet tall. As I was coming into town, I saw this phenomenal tree. I couldn’t figure out how to get to my lodging for the night.  I just kept pushing forward.  I was afraid that if I sat down, I would never get up.  I was borderline boinking, which means I was totally out of fuel.  I desperately needed to sit down and eat something, but I didn’t want to pause. Prayer works.  Right after I sent up an arrow prayer, I saw a man, and I asked him if he knew where the Management Center was.  He said he lived very close to it and to just follow him.  He was tall and long-legged, and I had trouble keeping up, plus it was up a steep hill/mountain.  Fresh, I could have kept up, but not exhausted and carrying a backpack. 

Finally, after 22.5 long miles, I see the Management Center.  Pretty impressive.  According to AI, "The Management Centre at Bangor University is a premier business, conference, and accommodation hub launched in 2008 following a £15m ($18 million dollar) project supported by EU funding. Housed in the historic Edwardian-era former Normal College buildings (circa 1908–1910), it offers 4-star accommodation, dining, and executive training, serving thousands annually, including members of the Royal family.”  Once I checked in, I had to haul my luggage up three flights of stairs, but at long last, I made it--  22.5 miles!

I decided to eat in the 1811 dining room at the hotel. I was too tired to walk into Bangor and look for a place. It looked like a student cafeteria but had table service. I ordered the Roasted Chicken Supreme, and Supreme it was.  I wasn’t expecting anything so delicious. It was served over new potatoes, with broccolini and snow peas, topped with a white wine and Dijon sauce. I thought I was almost too tired to eat, but I practically licked my plate. New Zealand Sauvignon wines are very popular.  I had a nice glass of “Squealing Pig.” My waiter gave me a free dessert card for tonight.  I am going back and ordering the chicken again - that is how good it was.  I think I will order the black cherry crumble tart that comes with Welsh Vanilla Ice cream and then waddle back to my room.

Nothing exciting today. I wandered around the campus which is very old and historic.  I did laundry and got reorganized and then workied on this Blog. 

So I bid you good afternoon and

God Bless.

No Blog Post 4/30/26

 My apologies.  Today was a 22.5 mile day and I am pooped.  I will write and send today’s blog tomorrow.  Don’t worry - I am okay, but very tired

Meal at Jackdaw 4./29 Addendum

 I booked a table at Jackdaws for a 12-course tasting meal. According to Michelin, "Jackdaw is the name given to a person born within the walls of Conwy, making this an aptly named restaurant in the town center. It’s a snug, intimate place nestled on the first floor of a characterful building that was once a cinema. The modern tasting menu has a distinctly playful edge, backed up by well-judged flavor combinations; Welsh pride and hyper-seasonality also play a part, exemplified by a dessert built around the Afal Enlli apple. Service is warm, and the wines are listed by how far they were produced from Conwy, as the jackdaw flies.” The chef and owner is Nick Rudge who was born and raised in Llandudno, North Wales.

A skwrch of a Jackdaw.

The tiny dining room.

The entire menu.

The first part is hard to read on the whole menu.

The first three courses - all good and all interesting.  I don’t know if you can see, but the middle one, on a rock, is the tiniest sliver of Welsh salted duck.

My favorite of the initial courses was the Hafot and "Conwy Sauce" Rarebit.  It was cruncy on the outside with the rarebit flavors and shredded cheese on top.  YUM!

Next was Wye Valley Green Asparagus, Conwy Nettle, Apple Marigold & Green Sauce . The asparagus was sliced paper-thin, and the sauce was tart and refreshing. Most interesting 

This one I have to tell you about.  It was “Lamb Cawl” which was lamb's head on Anglesey Bread.  It tasted like pork with pickled onions on top. Not something I would have ordered on my own.

Trout with roe.  I don’t like caviar, but this was just a touch, almost like a pinch of sea salt. 

Rivbob Mon. Tart and refreshing.

Legend has it that the original recipe for Guinness was stolen from a tavern, Gwin Du in nearby Llantairfechan. This exact recipe then ended up in the hands of Arthur Guinness in Ireland. Here at the Jackdaw. Nick and his team have created a dessert inspired by the original recipe...”Gynwys”  Yum! The bottom was a sauce similar to hot fudge with a distinctive meady flavor. I am not a particular beer fan, but this was outstanding.  The ice cream may have had a slight mocha flavor?  I forgot to take a photo of the last thing - a tiny piece Treacle Toffee.  Very caramelly and chewy.

I didn’t include everything but I loved this meal, very adventurous and every thing worked together.  Although a $175.00 (with tip) is not my norm, it was worth it for the adventure.

One interesting thing about the meal was the map included with the menu.  I guess I don’t know my geography very well. Conwy is at the top, where it dips a little.  Look where South America is.  I had no idea that Wales extended so far south.

I am stuffed and tired, so I bid you good night and

God Bless.

Conwy Day Off 4/29/26

 

Good morning. Today, I made a command decision.  I really wanted to spend some time in this historic castle town, and I knew I wouldn’t get back from hiking until 4:30ish, so I took the day off. I think I have only ever done this like never. I have scheduled days off, but to not walk part of the hike and play tourist?  Plus, I have 18+ miles tomorrow, so I couldn’t see Conwy and then walk,

I read up on the history of Conwy, and this is what I found. Llywelyn ap Iorwerth or Llywelyn the Great (1173-1240) founded an abbey at Conwy, and he was later buried there. However, the town of Conwy was founded by the English King Edward the I. After subduing Wales, Edward decided to build a chain of castles in Wales to hold down the Welsh. In 1283, he visited Conwy and decided to build a castle and a new town there. In a record-breaking time, it took only 4 years (1283 to 1287) to build Conwy Castle. It took 15,000 men to build it, and the 8 towers that protected it. Think about that: no modern tools, no cranes or dump trucks, just the backs of men and animals

Looking out one of the gunnery ports on a lower level.

The Guard is constructed from Welsh oak beams and carved with details representing the wooden vaulting, ribbing, and flourishes that might have once adorned the rooms of the castle.

For many years, the castle was believed to be impenetrable. It didn't take war machines, battering rams, or a long, drawn-out siege to capture Castell Conwy - just guile and planning. On April 1st, 1401, the castle's garrison attended the Good Friday service at St. Mary's Church. Supporters of Owain Glyndwr, disguised as carpenters, talked their way into the castle and killed the two guards left on watch. This coup was a mighty boost for Glyndwr's war against English rule, causing a wave of rebellion across Wales. For fifteen weeks, the castle held out until a surrender was negotiated. But it came at a cost. Nine of the freedom fighters were handed over to the English and executed.

At the top, Llywelyn's sword and coronet rest on a mound of armor and weaponry. The work embodies the burning spirit of the Welsh people as the sculpture rises from the dungeon's darkness. 

This is actually the bottom of Llywelyn’s Coronte, down by the dungeons.

 On one hand, if you were an invited guest of the King, enjoying a feast with good company and fine food in front of the warming fireplace would have been a delight. On the other hand, if you were summoned here when the constable of the castle was doling out justice, it wasn't such a pleasure. You might find yourself on a short trip behind the fireplace, to the Prison Tower, followed by a 12-foot drop into the dark, dank dungeon at its base. You didn’t always know which one of the choices you had been invited to.

A view of the upper levels.

A view from the King's Tower.  It would have looked a lot different when George the 1st was in power.

The middle bridge was the long entrance to the castle, followed by a bridge over the moat.

Spring is certainly in evidence here.

Cistercian monks founded the Church of Saint Mary and All Saints, as Aberconwy Abbey, in 1172. It became central to Welsh learning and national identity because of its connections with the Princes of Gwynedd. Henry the III cemented his victory over the Welsh by evicting the monks in 1283. He relocated the Abbey to Maenan and used the former Abbey to house the workers building the castle within.  In 1284, the former Abbey became the Parish Church of Conwy and is a Christian church. The church is more than 100 years older than the castle.

The stunning stained glass window behind the pulpit.

In the center of Lancaster Square is a statue of Llewelyn ap Iowerth (or Llewelyn the Great), who stands proudly above a fountain painted in his heritage colors. 

From Plas Mawr website, "Never was a building better named. Plas Mawr, or the Great Hall, is quite simply the finest surviving Elizabethan town house anywhere in Britain. This was a golden age when fabulously wealthy merchants invested in mansions, rich fittings, and lavish entertaining. Robert Wynn, third son of a local landowner, wanted a piece of the action. He entered the service of Tudor diplomats and traveled to the most splendid royal courts of Europe. His fortune made, he bought a mansion house in Conwy for £200 and, between 1576 and 1585, turned it into a celebration of his life, times, and wealth.”  Above is one of the gardens.

His attire.

He was married to Dorothy Griffith, and this was one of her outfits.

Dorothy’s bedroom.

The hearth in the great room and yes it was painted those colors. I asked one of the guides.  I loved the plaster ceilings in most of the rooms.

This would not go over in our house. It says, "Keeping cats in bedrooms was particularly unhealthy, for their breath 'consumed the radical humours... and therefore they which keep their Cats with them in their beds have the Air corrupted, and fall into several Heckticks and Consumptions'. Topsell, 'History of Four-Footed Beasts’ 1607”

Time to eat and I found the perfect named place - “Love to Eat”.  That would be me.

I ordered the Welsh Rarebit.   It seemed like the thing to do in Wales.  On the menu it said, Spiced cheese sauce, made with caramelized onion & mustard.”   I added ham to my lunch.  It was quite good.

 

Lastly, I visited the Smallest House in Great Britain. The door was only 5 feet tall.  I was told that among its inhabitants over the years, a 6’3 man lived there for ten years

The downstairs

The upstairs. 

I am going to publish this early today since it is already so long. I will publish an addendum or tell you about dinner in tomorrow's blog.  I am going to a very special restaurant tonight.  

Until then.