Dinner was great fun. I met a man named Dennis from France, a charming dinner companion and his English was good. He lived in Bordeaux and when I commented that I loved Bordeaux, he gave me that look and then asked what exactly I liked about Bordeaux? I emphatically said, "the people." He appeared shocked and commented that most people don't like the French people. I was more shocked to hear a Frenchman say this. I felt duty bound to take up for the French people because I was rescued by several of the kindest French people in Bordeaux when I couldn't find my hotel at midnight. I told him the story and he was quite impressed. He sat at the table beside mine. At the next table was a woman from England and a woman from Slovakia. Dinner was one of the most delicious meals of my travels. I had melon with Iberian ham. They gave me a huge half melon with dark green skin. It was closest to a white fleshed honey dew but even sweeter. My main course was grilled chicken breast with salad. I was hungry for plain food and this really hit the spot. Of course, I ordered Helado...ice cream just in case you thought I went all out healthy. I also had a healthy couple of glasses of wine!
The old beside the new.
There was a medium sized golden dog inside this little trailer. He growled at me as I went by and simply would not allow me to take his photo. Camera shy. A wise woman gives a growling dog some space!
Santiago doesn't look like his has missed any good Spanish meals.
17.7 miles and 40,761 steps. I have seen any of these crosses in villages and along the countryside Camino but none with such compelling figures added. On the front are two pilgrims and on the back side is a grieving or tired man. They are at the entrance to Mansilla de las Mulas. According to the Bierley book, "The name of this interesting town is derived from Mano en Silla (hand on the saddle) that also defines the towns coat of arms. The addition of de las mulas (of the mules) most likely refers to the town's earlier promenence as a live stock market." In any event, I was at my destination...mule or no mule.
The Ermita de la Virgen de Gracia has an unusual style as well as color for a Spanish Catholic Church.
The main statue, (at the center altar) is the Virgen de Gracia. She was probably made by La Rolanda (who ever that is?) and is the patron saint of the town.
I played tourist today. I arrived in town at 11:30. I got an early start thanks to some people next door to me (in last night's hotel) who decided to wake the world at 5:30 am. Grrrrr. So when I arrived in Mansilla de las Mulas, instead of cleaning up and relaxing, I wandered the town. Everything shuts down from 2:00 to 5:00 for siesta so I wanted to see the sites in this "walled town." The Museo Etnográfico" was recommended by the hostelario.
There were plenty of rakes and shovels and tools but this wagon spoke to me of gypsies and celebrations.
I mostly liked the traditional costumes section.
There was also a huge section on "Festival" which is traditionally held during lent. There were some pretty wild looking costumes.
I was mesmerized by the likeness of Jesus. The colors were so rich and vibrant. AWEsome.
This is the Inglesia de Santa Maria. Rather underwhelming from the outside but the inside was really beautiful. As I walked in the organ started to play and I heard lovely voices. Seems that it was practice time for the choir. They all waved at me and said "Buen Camino" from the organ loft! One of my most special "Buen Caminos)
The main altar and a wonderful stained glass window. Look at that blue!
Part of the old city walls. I quickly headed back to the hotel. The sky was getting darker and darker and the wind had picked up again. Very threatening. You could smell the rain on the way. The temperature has been falling all day and tonight it is supposed to be freezing. And snow tomorrow! That will be interesting. Best put on all my warm gear. Crazy weather. I could have stayed in Louisville, if I wanted crazy weather.
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