Vivarone to Santhia 8/12/23

 

Good morning all.  This is the first of the Po Valley stages which are through lots of corn and rice paddies..

I hadn't seen this particular sign until today.

Just peeping through these gates reminded me of "The Secret Garden," my favorite book as a child.

Here is what the whole mansion looked like.

And it even had a name - the Villa Rampone.

I can not even imagine working with a Falcon.  They are incredible birds.  I have been to several Falcon exhibitions over the years and I never get tired of watching them.

While I did have a couple of short stretches of steep up, the trail was mostly flat.  My legs appreciated that but my soul never gets tired of the mountains.

Chiesa di San Michele Arcangelo.

It was hard to believe that this was only a "local" church.  It was magnificent.  I guess being in the wine business allows lots of tithing from the congregation..

It had an impressive domed ceiling.

So many side chapels. Awe inspiring.

I have never seen a church or Cathedral that you can walk through each side chapel in a straight line.  Usually they are closed off on the sides.

I was surprised to see a black Virgin Mary but then I am not Catholic. Wikipedia: "According to pious legend, a black wooden statue of the Virgin Mary carved by Saint Luke was found in Jerusalem by Bishop Eusebius of Vercelli and brought to Vercelli in the 4th century AD.  The image was brought by Saint Eusebius of Vercelli from the Middle East, presumably from Syria or Lebanon to his diocese of Vercelli. During a mid-fourth century persecution of Christians by the local Celtic pagans, Eusebius retreated to the mountains of Sacro Monte di Oropa, about 9 miles from Biella, Italy and hid the statue of the Madonna in a cave. When they later tried to move the image, its weight was supernaturally increased and they had to leave it there, in the mountains, where it currently presides over a massive shrine. Pious believers interpret the supernatural weight of the image to be a sign from the Blessed Virgin Mary that she willed a sanctuary be built there. Local legends further claim that before the arrival of Eusebius, the Celtic tribes worshipped a black fertility god which was allegedly replaced by the present Madonna and Child image. The Black Virgin is also known as Madonna Nera di Oropa or María Reina de Monte Oropa."

There is a day of celebration in her honor on April 28. 

Quite a popular style of Castle in this area.

Not the clearest photo but these looked so yummy as I walked by.

I made pretty good time today right up until close to the end. Somehow I got off trail and couldn't seem to get back on it.  The map on my phone is wonderful until it isn't and then the little arrow just seems to float around. After I had walked around the traffic circle twice trying to find the right direction, this very nice man on a Honda 50 type motor scooter turned around.  He didn't speak English but I showed him the address of my hotel and he pointed me in the correct direction.  Then a ways up the road, he waited to make sure I made the proper turn. You can't beat those angels that show up now and again.  I added about 3 miles to my journey.  And it was almost 90 degrees.  Not a day that I wanted to walk 3 miles on blacktop. I was so hot and sweaty (seems to be the theme of this hike) and lo and behold a BAR!  Boy did that Coca Cola Zero taste good.  Lucky for me, my hotel was not hard to find. My total distance was 14 miles (supposed to be 11) and I have not yet done my errands.

I went to the hotel bar for a glass of wine and look how much food theygave me.  At least I didn't pig out.  I had included  dinner coming in 35 minutes.

 The couple from Australia joined me for dinner.  They are so much fun. I ordered Panissa alla Santhiatese which was advertised as the famous piedmontese rice cooked with sausage and beans. Although it doesn't look all that yummy, it was. I do love my beans.

I also had my choice of all of these delectable side dishes. I sampled a little bite of most of them. The marrinated carrots and fresh tomatoes were my favorite.

And for dessert...

Another local specialty: Bunet which was prepared with cacao, eggs, rhum, hazelnuts and amaretti cookies. It was worth the calories and I am stuffed.  I don't know how I am going to work off all these calories. 

I will certainly try.  Tomorrow is a 20 plus mile day.  And guaranteed to be hot.  Going to bed early to get up early and beat the heat.  So good night and sweet dreams to you all.