Aulla Day Off 8/30/23

I don't know if ya'll realized that yesterday was my final day of hiking.  Such a sad thing and yet, I am ready to go back to the real world.

There is always a church at the end of any Camino.  And this one on the outside was rather plain.  At he end of WWII, Aulla was completely destroyed by bombs, so the beautiful old stone village that was once here is no longer.  And yet, remains of the anciet and old are still here.  You can never totally get rid of history, no matter how many great works of art you destroy! The church formerly known as the Abbey of San Caprasio was founded in 884. It was a former Benedictine monastery, established as a hostel on the pilgrimage route to Rome. It was originally dedicated to the Virgin Mary (Santa Maria), but in 1077 was re-dedicated to Saint Caprasius of Lérins (San Caprasio), the patron saint of the town and a patron saint of pilgrims.

A rather plain sanctuary that housed some ancient artifacts.

These bones were under the the the altar.

The abbey also holds relics—including the cranium—of one Saint Severo from the 4th century, which are kept in an ornate box. Not sure about the hippie headband?  St. Severo was the twelfth bishop of Naples, between 363 and 409 AD. San Severo's episcopate unfolded in a period when Christianity was heavily threatened by paganism and arianism. Despite the situation, Severo managed to strengthen Christianity, becoming the spiritual father of Neapolitan Christians.

Rather an interesting baptismal. 

When the site was excavated a stone coffin was locaated.

The original attire for the walk of Saint James.

Tonight I had Pasta Arriabiata which was delicious.  My hotel had the best bread of the entire trip.  I swear I ordered the salad so I had olive oil and balsamic to dip the bread into.  I skipped the main course and dessert just to have move bread.  And to go with that great big glass of excellent wine.  

Another pair bites the dust.  I think they are finito.  What good friends they have been but it is time to part ways.

On this last hiking post, I usually reflect back on the things that I have learned.  I learned not to mess with heat exhaustion!  And I learned that an old dog can learn new tricks.  I can't say I have mastered, but I can say that I am proficient in downloading trail maps, and following them. I do miss following the markers rather than looking down at my phone, but it is up to all of us to learn new things, and in today's tech world that seems to be a daily event.  In all these old churches, I am reminded to look up because sometimes the most awesome sights are above us. It is easy to only look up to God in times of crisis and not in times of apprecition. Way too often we only look ahead and we miss so many beautiful things.  How could we live with never looking back.  Would we deny the joy and knowledge gained from our parents and grandparents.  There is much to be learned from history.  And if we never look side to side we forget stop and smell the roses. We miss the enjoyment of what is happening right now as we only focus on moving ahead. We plod forward as if we have blinders.  Our children grow up, our friends grow old, we retire, and we realize, too late, that we missed it all with our focus on the future.  And yet with out looking forward, we stumble and lose our way. We wander aimlessly in circles. Direction is important and if we look to God, he lead us down the ttail we are meant to take.  When we have more memories than dreams, we become old.  So here are to dreams!

 

Filattiera to Aulla 8/29/23

When I went to bed last night, I wasn’t sure if I could hike today because of the weather.  I hadn’t packed my backpack or prepared either way, deciding to wait until morning to decide in hopes that the weather cleared a bit.  Long story short, instead of getting up early, I overslept and had about twenty minutes before the taxi guy was to pick up my suitcase.  Even as the taxi drove away, I wasn’t sure I had made the right decision.

It looked threatening.

I was fascinated by the six-sided star window on the front of this little parish church.  I couldn’t find any information in English on it other than the church is named Oratorio della Beata Vergine Maria Annunziata.

Hmmm - no fence.  I hoped he wouldn’t leap.

 A huge Gigl’atro Carnival was loading up their equipment for travel.  I love seeing how all of those three-story rides pack into little spaces.  When I took this photo, the man in charge shook his fist at me.  Maybe he was wanted?

Ahhhhh, Coke Zero!

I love this house.  I don’t think I have ever seen a spiral staircase in front of a home.  Perhaps a mother-in-law suite?

It's one of the prettiest views of the day.  The one-time owner of the property around the church was the Marquess Corrado, who was remembered in Dante’s Inferno.

Such a modern stained glass window above the altar for such an old and elegant church.

The ceilings were magnificent.  

Still looking a little dicey.

Virgoletta in the distance.

One of the most interesting war memorials I have ever seen.  It shows a soldier comforting a tiny child.

I stopped in Virgoletta to picnic and decide what I thought the weather would do.  It was clearing up in one direction and pretty dark in the others.  I knew I could walk back to Filetto and catch a train or bus, but I would not have that opportunity until I reached Aulla, my day’s destination about 10 miles away.  I decided surely I was going towards the sun.

Right after I left Virgoletta, it started to rain.  There was no thunder or lightning, but I got good and soaked in a steady rain.

This must also be a running track.  After about an hour, it quit raining so I could take more photos and take off my rain poncho.  Those ponchos keep the top part of you and your backpack dry but are so hot.

Isn’t he cute and he was really friendly.  He and the dog were playing when I walked along their fence.  I suspect he was also a family pet.

It turned out to be one of my favorite hikes.  I was so thankful I did not have to travel with the suitcase!

I had an included dinner tonight.  Again, I skipped the main course.  My first course was pasta with gorgonzola, parmesan, cream, and walnuts.  Somehow, despite the cream, it was light.  The pasta was perfectly balanced, and the gorgonzola did not overpower the dish.  I don’t think there is bad pasta in Italy.

Cheesecake with strawberries topped off the dinner.

Until tomorrow, may all your meals be Italian!

Groppodalosio to Filattiera 8/28/23

 

By this time of day, it should be a good afternoon to you all!

Looking out my window before the big storm began.  So, for the first time in all my hiking years (30+), I did not hike due to the weather.  I have hiked many times in rain, even pouring rain, but I do not hike in thunder, and lightning except like yesterday when I got caught in it.  Even that hat has been extremely rare. And it stormed today, big booming thunder and impressive lightning bolts.  And it poured - cats and dogs. This went on all day.  So I went with the luggage and spent the day in a hotel room.  Luckily, the kind people in today's hotel gave me access to my room at 9:00 a.m.

There is always a silver lining to every cloud. Late this afternoon,  I was tired of being couped up, so I got my umbrella out and fought the rain for a short block to a local bar.  There was a group of about eight older gentlemen playing cards.  I sat over in another section of the bar with my glass of sparkling wine, reading my iPad.  They sent me another glass of wine and tried for a second.  They were so funny and nice.  Ever so gentlemanly. As I left, they wished me a good journey.  Thank you, Italy, for making an old broad feel like a young chick! And in such a nice way.

Sometimes, when the server comes to my table, and I am still trying to figure out what the Italian words mean, I just point to something, and wonder what the hell I just ordered.  It paid off in spades tonight.  This was Tris de Testaroli Lunagianesi serveti con olio pesto e sugo di funghi porcini or Lunagiani's pasta with oil, pesto (local sauce made with basil, pinenuts, garlic, olive oil, and parmesan) and porcini mushroom sauce. I wasn't expecting pasta to look like this.  The only way I can describe the pasta was like a less spongy buckwheat pancake.  It was amazing.  Even though the pesto looked like the after-effect of the cat eating grass, it was scrumptious. I could order this seven nights in a row and never get tired of it. And this was just the first course.  As usual, I skipped the main course.

I did get an ensalata mixto, which is just a side item. And in Italy, it is always served after the main course.

I can't get enough of this lemon sorbetto.  Just the right amount of tang.

I am on hold for tomorrow's hike.  I am just going to wait until morning to see if I get to walk.  Say a prayer.  So, even with stormy weather, I hope your day is half as wonderful as mine!

Berceto to Groppodalosio 8/27/23

 

What a magical day.  The scenery was astonishing, amazing, and gorgeous. 

The lazy cows were just munching away, paying no attention to me what so ever.

There were mountains in every direction.

After a 4 mile climb, the first challenge was within eyesight  - Mount Velora.

At the top, I met a Dutch man who had started from his house.  He was going on to Rome. He and I were the only two people on top of the nountain.

As I topped the hill, I was in for a wonderful surprise.  Look Janet, horses!  

The herd seemed to be enjoying the view as much as I was.

I was a little afraid I would spook them over a cliff, but there was a trail on the other side of them.

Looking down from the first pass over the mountains. Today I leave the Emilia Romagna region and enter Tuscany.

Leaving the Mount Velora

Another wonderful surprise.  A bar with Coke Zero.  Aptly named Cisa Bar. There must have been a hundred motorcycles.  I didn't hear much of them today but yesterday, they sounded like angry hornets and I watch them almost scrape their knees on the sharp curves.

The arch officially welcomes pilgrims to Passo della Cisa.

I had to walk up even more to pass the chapel.  Unfortunately it was not open.   I think it was reserved for a wedding.

Another heavenly cross on top of a mountain.

I walked for several miles through this lovely woods of beech and chestnut trees.  All day I had a cool breeze and very few areas without shade.

I couldn't resist snapping this photo of Mama and baby.

About this time, it started pouring rain with thunder and flashes of lightening.  I thought I was very close to my destination but I had to run all the way up another mountain and I got soaked. Not my favorite thing to do, either be out in a storm or run up a mountain. I do have sense enough to get out of the rain but there was no where to go. Talk about some prayers going straight up. My camera went into a ziplock and that ended my photo taking for the hiking day.  A shame because it was a beautiful trail.

This is my charming B & B.  Photo taken after the rain stopped.

My little room.  I have four beds but I do not have to share because I have a private room and bath.

I walked around the tiny, remote stone village at the top of yet another mountain. First I saw these gorgeous white wine grapes.  Then...

... these red wine grapes.  Must be a mixed pair like Dennis and me.

This is Max.  He and his girlfriend, Jena were my dining companions.  They were so much fun. They are from Germany.  I actually like this red wine.  

My host, Marcus cooked this meal and it was superb.  We had pasta with fresh tomatoes and a chickpea patty.  We also had homemade bread similar to fry bread. Everything was homemade and home grown - even the olive oil for the bread.  My camera ran out of battery so I couldn't take a photo of the rest of the meal. For dessert, Greta, our hostess made sort of a very light cheesecake with chocolate drops sandwiched in between two boozy pieces of cake. It was yummy. It looked like an ice cream sandwich. All three of us ate numerous helpings of everything. There was a lot of mmmms going on.  And at the end Marco brought out three bottles of what I would describe as Italian Moonshine that he made.  Too strong for me! But I did taste one of them.  Whew!

So you must forgive my grammar mistakes and lack of commas.  It was a challenging 14 plus mile day and I am tired.  I wouldn't trade the day - it was magnifico.

Good night.