Sunday, November 7, 2021

Saturday, November 6: Piediluco to Poggio Bustone

 


My very handsome taxi driver dropped me off right where he picked me up the night before. There is certainly some eye candy in Italy.  Not willing to trade Dennis but I still can appreciate a handsome man.



The day started off really well, and I found the trail, and off I went.


Piediluco is the home of the Italian Crew Racing Federation.  Paolo D'Aloja is crediting to bringing Italy back as an Olympic Contender.  Many international events are held in Piediluco, and there is a year round training facility.

The early morning fog on the lake.


I hit a section on the trail with a fork in the road.  As I turned around to backtrack, there was  a German fellow with a giant backpack coming towards me.  He was at least six foot six, maybe six foot eight, with a thick black beard.  He told me that he had started in Germany and was hiking with no money.  The early pilgrims left their homes with no money because they were poor. I offered to give him some money and he said no that he would only take food from people.  I didn't have hardly any food so I was of no help. And I thought having no phone was a problem!  He told me that he had walked at least 1800 kilometers since he started. That is about 1120 miles.  He said it was his first and last pilgrimage.  I don't think he was having a good time. But, he got me on the correct path and I was on my way.  He was going much slower.


At the top of the first brutally uphill climb, I found this little bar with Coca-Cola zero.  I sat on the step for a rest. I thought maybe my German friend would come along and I could buy him a sandwich but I never saw him again.

Looking out from Labro.


I have changed districts.  I am now in Lazlo instead of Umbria and the signage has changed as well.


I didn't really see anyone on the trail after the German man




One of the more interesting things about yesterday was the Faggio San Francisco beech tree.  From my guide book, "Legend says that, while walking through the mountains, Francis was suddenly overwhelmed by a strong storm.  Taking shelter under the branches of a beech tree, Francis noticed that the tree's branches gathered over him like an umbrella, protecting him from the elements.  Francis blessed and thanked the tree, which tradition locates here, at what is confirmed to be one of the oldest living beech trees in the world."



I was lost, I just hadn't figured it out yet.  When I left the beech tree I couldn't find the markers for the trail.  There was a sign pointing midway between a pasture and the road.  I walked all over that pasture but there was no sign of a trail. So it must be the road and off I went. 


I walked and walked and walked some more.  No trail signs but I figured the road had to lead somewhere. I finally got to the top of another mountain and there was no village or house anywhere to be seen.  So I decided to backtrack about five miles.


I passed these cows twice.


And look!  Wild ponies. At least, I saw some cool sights


I had crossed the road several times on the trail so I decided to follow the road back, even if I had to go all the way back. I was hiking at top speed.  I knew the little bar was on the way.  Well, it wasn't.  I walk forever down that road and it was getting late -- like 4:30 late.  I didn't want to be out in the dark. At one point, I realized I was boinking (running out of fuel), and I just sat down on the edge of the road and gobbled down the last of my cheese and crackers.  I didn't have time to waste.  Suddenly, I spotted a village in the distance after seeing nothing for a scary while. Talk about some arrow prayers skywards.  At 23.1 miles of hiking, tough mountain hiking, I stumbled into a bar, feet screaming for mercy! They didn't have Coca-cola zero so I ordered a Vino Bianco.  It is always easier to ask for help if you have spent some money. No one spoke English and I was considering laying down in the floor for the night if someone didn't help me. I showed them the name of my hotel and the bartender called for her husband who was in the next room.  He indicated that he would drive me.  I hadn't even gotten to the point of asking. I had a full glass of wine and I drank it like an Italian, one long gulp and down the hatch.  This nice man not only drove me to the bar/restaurant with the same name as my hotel but went in and spoke to the owner who made some phone calls.  Then he walked me down the street to meet the hotel lady.  He would not let me buy him a coffee nor would he take any money.  There really are angels on earth and these people have restored my faith in humanity.  It sure felt like a miracle. God is good.


I needed to go to a market but I was too tired to walk very far so I sat down in the bar/restaurant and ordered a glass of wine.  I thought I would nurse it until dinner time.  The bartender brought me this plate of goodies and it filled me up.  Once again, I left a nice tip.


The town at night -- pretty dark up there.  I can assure you that I slept very well.  That is why today's blog is so late. I was too tired to write it.  Alls well that ends well!


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