In the course of his life, Francis of Assisi visited Valley on numerous occasions. While in the area he created the first known nativity scene, now popular in many countries at Christmas. More importantly he founded four important shrines that are located in each corner of the valley: Fonte Colombo, Sanctuary of Greccio, La Foresta and Poggio Bustone.
I left today in a fog -- no, not as a result of my lack of caffeine but a real thick as soup fog.
Almost in front of my hotel was this tribute to the Olympics. I couldn't find any thing on line about Olympics in Rieti but I did learn that Kobe Bryant grew up here and spoke fluent Italian.
Such an interesting war memorial.
I see these beautiful porcelain artworks, normally on residences, all over Italy. This was the prettiest one of all.
The first half of today's 16.1 mile hike was fairly flat through the Rieti Valley and I knew there had to be some steep up. Even through my vision was cloudedd, I could still make out the mountains ahead.
Ponte Sambuco is a well preserved vestige of the ancient Roman Road Salaria.
I walked over the he tunnel above and it seemed to be in a state of serious repair.
This cross did my heart good. It has a shell hanging from the center -- a symbol of the Camino de Santiago -- a symbol near and dear to my heart.
I am glad that I didn't walk this Camino when I was originally scheduled -- spring -- because the fall colors here are just magnificent.
My destination village of 565 people.
It was so nice to be welcomed as a Peregrino!
I stopped in this little bar and got this huge piece of Focaccia bread with tomatoes, caramelized red onions and red bell peppers. I was majorly hungry because it was well after my normal lunch. I was a bit uncomfortable at first because there were about fifteen men and one woman sitting in front of the bar at various tables. They were most curious, staring, and I could tell they were talking about me. I tried hard to use my best manners and not scarf down this focaccia bread like I really wanted to -- it was sublime. I didn't want them to think that I was a American heathen. There was no hotel in this village so I had to ask the bartender to call the Agraturismo Ripa. Actually there were two ladies running the bar and between them, they figured out what I needed. God loves these wonderful people who so graciously help me out. And after I sat outside for a while, the men were all very nice and tried to ask me questions. I did manage to convey to them that I was an Americana and din't speak Italian. I guess when your town population is so small, an outsider is big interest.
I don't normally take a photo with bread and olive oil but this deserved mention. The Sabina area (think of all those Rape of the Sabine Women old master's oil paintings) is renouned for the best olive oil in the world. I now agree. I simply must bring some of it home.
My primi course was tagliatelle pasta with truffles and fresh sage. I keep writing about how good that every meal is but this pasta went beyond some of my other incredible meals. It was fresh pasta and fresh truffles with just a hint of the sage. Nothing like the dried sage so common at Thanksgiving. I am going to waddle home in search of a fat farm.
My secondi course was grilled Italian sausage and skewers of beef. The sausage was cooked to perfection and the tiny bites of beef on the skewer had been marinated in herbs and olive oil. Delisioso! The mixed grill was accompanied with sauted chicory. I have never had chicory before but I like any kind of greens and this was flavored with some sort of meat, maybe pork? It was closest to turnip greens. Speaking of turnip greens, a few days ago I saw a menu with a turnip greens pizza. Interesting?
So that is all the news that is fit to print! Until tomorrow --
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