Monday, October 18, 2021

Sunday, October 17, 2001 Camaldoli to Chiusi della Verna

 


The main church in Camaldoli -- rather modern for Italy.


This cross hanging above the altar was very unusual — no blood, no piercings. Those Italians of days gone by wanted to see realistic crosses and paintings with dripping blood.



I liked the signs.  All of the village signs were wood and painted bright yellow.

Okay, so these people are living on the side of a mountain,  Every direction was steep up and steep down.  You could not go to the market with out a steep uphill and downhill.  Must be someone's quirky sense of humor to have this little workout park? It was empty!


Looking back at Camaldoli.


As I climb up, Camaldoli get further and further away.


This trail is pretty much on top of this mountain but I already know I have to go down and then go over that one in the distance.


There are so many of these mountain chapels. This one is in the middle of nowhere.  Wonder if they ever use them?


All day, I had spectacular views of mountains and then some views of my feet as I plodded upward. 


I walked through parts of the National Park of the Casentino Forests.  Peaceful and so quiet. I try to have some sort of church on Sundays.  Today, I listened to Alan Jackson's "Precious Memories Collection."  It is my favorite religious album (what do you call an album or CD now?). It has my favorite hymn of all times, "The Old Rugged Cross," plus so many of the ones I grew up singing.  He sings it just like it was written, no riffs, no taking liberty with the melody. I find my self singing along even though my singing is tortuous to listen to but, hey, I am out in the wilderness with no one around. These songs take me back to the country church my Grandparent attended — out door toilet — no air conditionsing. On a good day, there might be 80 people.


I was so disappointed when I arrived in Rimbocchi and the bar was closed.  I decided to finish my lunch at a little table out side a business that primarily sold sliced meat and cheese by the looks of it. Lights were off and no one was in sight. I could see potato chips through the widow. Boohoo!  I wanted chips and a diet coke.  Poor me. And then up drives this man, hops out of his car and pushes open the door.  The woman, rather grumpy, gave him his to-go package. You can bet I was standing there behind him with a Coco-cola Zero and chips!  As it turned out, the chips weren't chips but a cross between Cheetos and potato chip.  They were potato flavored with no cheese.  If you look closely you can see one on top of the bag.  It takes so little to make me happy.  I think I smiled for the next mile. 


I had to cross this little creek.  I should have taken out a hiking pole but I didn't. Would have served me right to have wet feet. I took a chance that I wouldn't fall in — wobbled a few times but made it — dry.


And then it was up — up — and more up.

After I got to the top, I walked along a ridge for a least a mile.  I had to pay very close attention because it was not well marked.  I only made a bad turn once but quickly found the trail again.


The section just before Santuario della Verna was like walking through and enchanted forest.I could hear the monks chanting.  It was surreal.


If you look closely you can see the back to the monetary, which I am going to visit tomorrow on my day off.  DAY OFF - what a wonderful thing to contemplate. Whoopee! I thought I really close to my hotel but I had 2.5 miles to go.  Just knowing I was almost there put some length in my stride.


Dinner at Hotel da Giovanna (Chiusi della Verna) was wonderful.  I started with three different bruschetta — one had cheese and garlic, one had tomato sauce and one tiny sliver of anchovy.  I don't know what the third one had because I squirreled it away for later.

I had homemade pasta with truffles — lots of truffles — real black truffles.  Dio Mio — it was a gift from heaven.  Of course, I sprinkled it generously with Parmigiano-Reggiano. This was the Primo or first course size which is smaller than the Secondo. I skipped ordering the Secondo because the  Primo size was more than I could finish. I have not seen one overweight Italian. Where do they put it?  I would be the size of a house if I ate every course.

I ordered an ensalada mixta which is the basic house salad.  So fresh — so tasty.  The Italians serve the salad along with the meal.  

I ordered the creme caramel for dessert.  It too was excellent with a bit of a coffee flavored syrup.

So finally I was off to bed.  After 16.2 mountain miles, I must have been tired because I brushed my teeth with Benadryl.  It doesn't taste very good but at least my teeth won't itch.  

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