Friday, October 22, 2021

Buona Sera!

This little ol' lady that owned the hotel was a hoot! She instructed me to leave the key under the mat -- a see-through mat - like that was hidden.  And what burglar with an IQ higher than a ten-watt bulb wouldn't look under the mat?

At 8:20 she came driving up wanting my suitcase.  We had agreed on 8:30 -- No Problemo.  I had my suitcase ready to go but had about three bites of breakfast left.  She motioned with her hands to take all the time I wanted but I should know that the electricity turns off at 8:30. Now that is a way to get rid of your guests.

The weatherman said that it was going to rain all day.  Although it was dry, you could tell that wasn't going to last.

Still dry!

Today's hike was magnifico because I have never seen a better marked trail. It was glorious to not be lost.  Yesterday, I crossed over into Umbria.  Whooppee!  Tuscany needs to learn something about trying to hike those mountains with poor signage.

It's a boy!

Umbria is often called the Green Heart of Italy because of all of the farming.  It also welcomes pilgrims who walk in the way of St. Frances.

There were many beware signs about farm dogs guarding livestock.  Suddenly, I heard multiple dogs barking and I froze.  There were three coming around the corner. Uh oh.  As they neared,  I started talking to them in that tone we animal lovers all use.  "That's a good boy...who's a good boy."  I know, fairly nauseating.  Just be glad you can't hear me talk to the cats.   Never mind that the trio didn't speak English, I continued.  There is no greater joy than to see the lead dog start to wag his tail.  This guy and his two cohorts were so friendly.  Love those doggie kisses.

The Italians love their gates.

                                                  

And look at this beautiful wood carving of the man and his dog.

I didn't realize that grapevines turn yellow in the fall.

Now it is starting to sprinkle. Just as I round the corner to see the only bar of the day, it began to pour.  I had lunch -- a ham sandwich that was wonderful and za'atar flavored chips.  I have cooked with that spice but never had it on potato chips. Not my favorite flavor, at least in chips, but when you are tired and hungry on a hike - it all tastes good. I spent an hour at the bar waiting out the rain or at least the downpour.

Look at these guys, a face only a mother could love. I think they are Chianina Cattle?

In spite of the light rain, I loved today.

Look how beautiful.  There was no shortage of up and down and down and up but these were gentler mountains than the brutal straight-up of the Tuscan mountains.

More scenery.

At last, I see my destination city, Città di Castello.  Unfortunately just as I got there, 16.2 miles later, another downpour.  I wandered around for about an hour, looking for my hotel.  C'est la vie. I was good as new once I had a warm shower and a rest.

Dinner was at the hotel restaurant.  And I was lucky enough to have Felix and Leisa, my German friends, again for company. I went the "full monte" on ordering tonight.  No, I did not take my clothes off (heaven forbid) but I went all the way when I ordered dinner.  My primi course was "Ravioli Burro e Salvia" which was homemade stuffed ravioli with butter and sage.  Bellisimo!

My secondi course was "Merluzzo al Forno con Champignon e Pomodorini." I am always afraid to order fish that I am not familiar with but this was an A+, a very mild white fish with these amazing local mushrooms and small tomatoes, cooked in a butter sauce.  I considered licking the plate but certainly not with such classy dining companions.  A good thing I stepped out of my comfort zone and ordered the fish.

For dessert, I ordered the "Torte Sacher."  This cured my chocolate craving for several days.  Heaven for any chocoholic.  Good company and good dinner and good wine -- what is not to like.

So good night and sweet dreams -- until tomorrow!