October 31: Foligno to Campello sul Slitunno

 

Happy Halloween!  

They celebrate Halloween here in Italy but, it is not an official holiday.  Hmmm -- I don't think it is an official holiday in the U. S. either.  I think of an official holiday as one where you get the day off.  Of course, if you are retired, supposedly every day is a holiday, but Uhm - no!  I feel like I work even harder now that I am "retired."

I saw this beautiful white horse on my way out of Foligno.

Lots of bikes on the trail today.  They were all going this same way as I was.  There were six handsome Italian men in this group.  Not bad scenery!

I had several sections that were almost like tunnels.  

See that town far away.  I am headed there, but then I have more to go.  You are looking at  Upper Trevi, which goes back to the first century B. C. No night over here because I am continuing on to Campello sul Clitunno.

Getting closer.

Today was the final day of the Olive Oil Festival.  And being all hallows eve, there were lots of kids dressed in costume.

There were also many booths selling all kinds of flea market stuff.  I did wander down the aisle that was selling local cheese.  YUM!  I didn't buy any because I would have to carry it.  Same with the olive oil.  I really wanted to buy some good olive oil, but again, I would have to tote it for the rest of the day.  I have gotten very particular about what I am willing to put in my backpack. I stopped at a bar and had a Coca-Cola Zero, and people watched. It was a good time for a break as I had just finished some pretty serious up.

Look at these incredible fresh vegetables.  No wonder I am enjoying the food so much...maybe too much? My next vacation may be at a fat farm.

The scenic peephole as I am leaving Trevi.

Roma, just 215 kilometers!

Looking back at Trevi.

The continuation of the locals working in the olive groves.

Crates filled with fresh-picked olives.  I finally got a look at the way the Italians shake the branches to free the olives.  They have a long stick that sounds a bit like you are in a dentist's office but not the high-pitched drill, but the deeper sounding one.  On the end of the pole is a gizmo that reminds me of a Beenie and Cecil  (anyone remember them?) beenie with a twirly bird on top. They shake the branches until the olives fall out onto the green mesh.

Excited to see that the little book exchanges are in other countries also.  We have one right across the street from us in Louisville.

Just a bit of humor.  I was in desperate need of a bathroom, and this green sign described precisely my condition.  But Pissignano, the name of the town, was proof that God has a sense of humor.  Ahhhhhh...relief.

This beautiful swan is in the pond at Fonti del Clitunno. I will have to come back by here tomorrow.  The guidebook that I have told me not to follow the Camino signs that they would lead me away from where I am staying tonight.  So, as much as I become totally insecure (not quite a basket case) without all my little signs -- yep, got lost.  I am not listening to that guidebook again.  Every time I get lost.  So I ended up part of the way out on tomorrow's trail.  It didn't really add much mileage just some stress.  I ended up asking for directions about five different times but I made it, thanks to some very nice Italians.

This photo is just for my handsome husband.  If you don't know the story, when he was a kid, he and his best friend went to a home show or fair, and signed up for everything they could.  They each won free accordion lessons, and Dennis' mom was so excited that she made him spend the summer learning the accordion instead of playing ball with his friends.  So once again, dear, you could have played for our supper.

The pizza oven!  Although I wasn't by any means the ugly American, I was totally frustrated or should I say hangry at what I thought was 7:30.  That is what the sign said for my included meal.  I went downstairs and the only server who spoke English told me they were late with lunch so it wouldn't be until 8:00.  Grumbling, to myself, I went back to my room and waited for the half-hour, complaining only to Dennis via text. I went back downstairs and a different server told me it was only seven.  I argued (nicely, I hope) and pointed to my iPad, and said no it was 8:00.  Opps -- I was wrong.  Daylight savings started today at 3:00 a m.  I thought it was tonight.  Anyways, the nice server and the pizza guy took my order early.  Needless to say, I left a large tip.

First, they gave me this focaccia bread to go with my wine.  It was scrumptous. Amazing what a little rosemary and olive oil will do.

I would marry the pizza guy if he wasn't about 40 years younger then me plus I am kinda fond of Dennis. This was the best pizza I have ever had.  OMG  As I have heard my whole life "It'us so good it'da make your tongue slap your brains out." It was rich tomato sauce, tomatoes and the green globs are spinach and basil.  But the most unusual thing was that it had walnuts on it.  Good old English Walnuts. I would have never thought to put walnuts on a pizza. I could only eat half of it but you can take it to the bank that I brought the rest of it with me. Look carefully in the background, the candle was a bottle of Jack Daniels Black. 

So tomorrow I head for Spoleto for two nights.  

Happy Halloween! May your trick or treat bag be full of blessings (and candy!).

Saturday, October 30 Assisi to Foligno

 I woke up ahead of my alarm.  I guess that is a good thing.  I had breakfast.  Not so crazy about most Italian breakfasts because they tend to eat a sweet roll, sometimes a packaged sweet roll, as was the case in this hotel.  I need some protein, so I end up hungry and tired at 10:00.  Such a minor problem, hardly worth mentioning.  

The gate Nuevo was my exit point from Assisi.

So exciting!  This is the first waysign that I have seen which says Roma.

Morning clouds far below my route today.  I love being above the clouds, and there is something so special about being that high up.

Look at these pretty gates.  You don't see anything beyond them because the view is totally obscured by fog.

Looking back at Assisi.

You have to look close to see the olive pickers, who were shaking the olives from the trees onto this green mesh.  This family even brought the baby in a stroller.

This was the sign for a significant scenic view of the area below. There was even a bench here to sit and contemplate the beautiful scenery.  Except for it was totally fogged, and it was 11:00 a. m., a time when the fog has usually burned off.

As usual,  I picnicked for lunch.  I couldn't find a supermercado to get supplies while I was in Assisi.  I did find a mom-and-pop market, and this was the only type of cheese they had.  Leave it to me to find Velveta in the land of incredible cheeses.  It even came in individual, cellophane-wrapped slices.  But it was nice to sit on a bench, look out at the fog, and imagine what the scenery really looked like.

My morning hike mainly was along country roads with the silver leaves of olive trees on either side.

My first view of Spello, nestled on the southern flank of Mount Subasio  Spello is considered one of the most beautiful towns in Italy.  It was clearly a popular tourist destination, judging by the number of people wandering the streets.  I stopped at a small corner bar and had a Coca-Cola Zero, sitting outside with the sun in my face and a gentle wind blowing. It just doesn't get much better.

I loved these windows that looked like crosses. Through the peephole, I could look back on today's journey.

Never judge a book by its cover.  How many times have we all heard this old saying? Once again, the trite phrase proved to have merit. This plain front of the Chiesa San Lorenzo Matire concealed a wealth of treasures. Unless I am confused (totally possible), The church is located in the John F. Kennedy Piazza where Kennedy visited during his presidency.  I wanted to find the name, but it wasn't listed in any square that I passed through.

The aisle leading up to the main altar.

A close-up of the beautiful work around the altar.

An even closer up of the stained glass window.  Magnifico!

One of several side chapels. I could have taken a hundred photos, and you still would not have grasped the beauty of this church.

A small tribute to Saint Francis and his confession.

A bronze tribute to Saint Francisco upon returning after the war. His posture says it all.

Today was a very reasonable 14.8 miles.  Some up and some down but nothing too crazy.  It was nice to have a routine day.  My hotel in Foligno is relatively modern even though it is set in the historic part of town. In fact, it is the recently restored period home of a local noble family. I showered, and then I sat out on the plaza, had a glass of wine, and just relaxed.  Life is good in Italy!

My included dinner was at a restaurant next door to the Hotel Italia where I was staying.

The primi course was Stringozzi di Sugo de Funghi.  It was fat spaghetti with mushrooms and parmesan.  Such a simple dish but so saporous.  This is the first time I have had mushroom pasta with a tomato sauce base.  I didn't lick the plate only because I didn't want to embarrass America with my lack of manners. Had I been at home...

My secondi course was Petti di Pollo alla Norcia, a chicken filet with ham and patate al forno or roasted potatoes.  I took one tiny bite of the chicken breast, and into a baggie, it went for tomorrow.  I seem to be constantly looking for tomorrow's lunch.

Ahhhhh and the best -- for dessert, I had chocolate caramel gelato.  It was so creamy, so rich, so so so everything.  I will dream about this gelato tonight, and they will be sweet dreams indeed.

Hope the same for all of you.  

Friday, October 29 Assisi Day Off

 So this should be a day for me to lie in bed and just rest but not in my wheelhouse.  I was up and at-em at seven o'clock.  Too much to see and do in Assisi.

So many of the streets in Assisi, a third-century Etruscan village, look like this. 

The Basilica di Santa Chiara is dedicated to and houses the remains of Saint Clare.  She was a devout follower of Saint Francis. Founder of the Order of Saint Clair, still in existence today, Clare is also the patron saint of television and computer screens.  Isn't that interesting since she was born in 1194 and died in 1253?  It seems that when she was up in years,  lying in bed on Christmas, unable to accompany Saint Francis to mass,  images complete with the sound of the entire mass appeared on her wall.  

Saint Clare is also the patron saint of embroidery for all my stitchery friends.

The main altar.

I could not get a clear photo of the cross that hangs from the ceiling, so I photographed the front of this card that I found in the Basilica.  It is a replica of the famous crucifix which spoke to Saint Francis.

The stained glass windows were amongst the most beautiful and ornate that I have seen.

The ceiling over the crucifix.

The area leading to the Crypt of Saint Clare was stunning.

Her relics are buried in this glass coffin.

 

The rose window was perhaps the largest rose window of my journey.

This was on a covered-up window not too far from the Basilica.

   Sanctuary Chiesa Nuova was built in 1650 on the birthplace of Saint Francis

I am assuming that the statue is of Sait Francis and Saint Clare.

The high altar.

This is the small room where Saint Francis, after being beaten unmercifully by his father, was put in chains and held prisoner.

Here is quite the door for Mary P.

I chose one of the pistachio carnelo.  Yum!  Crunchy pie crust-like pastry on the outside, with rich melt-in-your-mouth pistachio cream on the inside.  And then to gild the lily, each end was dipped in chocolate. 

All though you can't tell it in this photo, each of these meringue cookies was the width of a basketball.  I happen to love meringues and make small ones that have to bake for at least an hour at a low temperature, and whoever baked these monster-sized ones must need to cook them for a week. Even though I was tempted, I did not get one.

So I saved the best for last.  The Basilica of Saint Francis of Assisi is the mother church of the Roman Catholic Order of Friars.

St Francis sat astride his horse with bowed head. This statue captures the moment when, in 1204, the saint heard the voice of God telling him to leave the war and return home. 

There was a large group of nuns and monks entering the Basilica.  Good to see them on tour.

The view above the main altar.  So beautiful I cannot begin to describe.  I didn't get many photos, although I wanted to.  I missed that you weren't supposed to take pictures at all but before, I was gently chastised.  I had taken just a few.

It was okay to take this one -- it was outside.

The beautiful rose window where I got caught! The shame of it!

Another door for Mary P.

The crypt of Saint Francis where his remains are kept.

Just a beautiful view of the countryside.

My street as the sun goes down.

I chose this little restaurant because they opened at 7:00 instead of 7:30.  Maybe not the best reason, but it worked.

Okay, so I stayed within my American comfort zone.  On the left is Finocchi Gratinati.  I am crazy for fennel.  Not the best fennel I have ever had, actually rather bland but the lasagne made up for it. This was my dream lasagne -- extra cheesy with perfect al dente pasta, but the real secret was the bolognese sauce. The sauce had that real fresh-picked tomato flavor with just a hint of acidity.  It was ooey-gooey perfect. 

So even though I walked 9.2 miles, mainly on steep up and down, it was the perfect day.  I know many of you have been to Assisi, but not everyone.  It is a magical place for us Christians.  I fell in love with Saint Francis and learned about Saint Clare -- equally if not more awe-inspiring.  Sorta feel left out as a protestant -- we are mostly ignorant about the Saints.

So until tomorrow -- sweet dreams and good night.