Monday, November 15: Roma - the Finale

 

I didn't look for the usual things that most tourists want to see when they come to Rome.  I have been here many times, but I never tire of her beauty.  I happened to pass by the Victor Emmanuel II National Monument, commonly known as Vittoriano, the first king of unified Italy. It might be one of the most prominent monuments anywhere and one of the most spectacular.

On my way to the Trevi Fountain, I stopped at this bistro, sat outside, and enjoyed people watching.

You can't tell from my photo, which looks like two large chicken breasts with some ketchup, but this was a thick grilled cheese with roasted red bell peppers.  It was pretty tasty.

I wanted to go to the Trevi Fountain and toss in a coin or two because legend has it that you will always return to Rome if you throw in a coin. And you must throw them with your right hand over your left shoulder. The fountain depicts the mythological Neptune, backed by two Tritons. There is usually water sprouting everywhere. Today, they were cleaning it -- no water -- no coins. Lord willing, I'll be back anyway.

In every direction, there were these beautiful old basilicas and churches.

I am standing on one bridge over the Tiber River and photographing another.

My favorite little bakery.

Today, I decided to try this chocolate bombe. It is y'alls fault -- I had to have something to write about.  Boy was this chocolate on chocolate with just a little raspberry layer.  I am not as big a chocoholic as  some of my friends. No haters. I preferred yesterday's dessert because it was chocolate with the whipped cream concoction in the middle. Like bakery birthday cake  -- don't be giving me a white cake with any frosting nor a chocolate cake with chocolate frosting -- I want a chocolate cake with white frosting.  Just thought you would want to know that. Don't feel too sorry for me, today's dessert wasn't all that terrible -- I didn't leave a crumb. 

I felt strongly that I had to end this journey in a church.  I have been to Saint Peter's and some of the others more famous ones but I had never been to The Basilica of Our Lady in Trastevere and I am staying in Trastevere. The Basilica dates back to the third century and is believed to be the first official place of Christian worship in Rome. As in many of these Basilicas and churches, not much to look at on the outside but just wait...

It is a magnificent structure -- not as big as many of the others, but every inch is carved or painted or gilded.

The high altar.

The main ceiling.

Another ceiling in a small side chapel.

There were many gorgeous oil paintings.  I don't know who this is, and I don't mean to offend, but he looks like our man of the towel to me.  Guess all this walking has made me a little silly.  But in some ways this whole journey has just reinforced my belief that God has a sense of humor. 

These fabulous stained glass windows were at the front of the basilica, directly opposite the high altar.

I walked by this restaurant earlier today and decided to come back for dinner even though it was a twenty minute walk from my hotel.

It might be the cutest restaurant ever.  I sat at that table in the center.

My view from the table.  Just such a great atmosphere.

My appetizer course was  fiore di zucca or a fried squash blossom. I would describe it as upscale fair food.  The batter was crisp and hot but hells bells you could fry up an old tire and it would taste pretty good.

My primi course or in my case my main course was Tonnarelli zi Franco.  I have learned that every area has a different name for spaghetti.  This had porcini mushrooms, thick cut crunchy bacon and pecorino cheese.  Excellent choice for my farewell dinner.

I have seen the funniest thing since I have been in Italy.  I don't have a photo but on numerous occasions, I have seen police cars, both marked and unmarked running code 3 (blue lights and siren).  When they come to an intersection, the car slows down and the officer on the passenger side leans at the window and waves this tiny sign on a stick.  It is not big enough to read. Viva la difference!

So although this was an off day I walked 12.9 miles.  Rome is a city to experience on foot.

It has been an intense journey of 522 miles, with about a hundred of them as "where the heck am I" miles.  I have been cold, hungry, lost, confused, and had a bird poop on my head. And had no phone, no technology. I had to do it the old fashioned way -- read the trail markers and pray. For me, it is always a spiritual journey with a side of fun and exercise.  I always learn and  this time  my lesson was that I had to just let go and let God. I was the most lost I have even been on that 23 + mile day and I count walking into that little bar as close to a miracle as I have experienced. God took this tired lost child and got her to where she needed to be.  Hallelujah!  Would I do it over again -- absolutely! A bit like life -- if I was only twenty and knew what I know now.  LOL.  With age comes wisdom, with mistakes come experience and with failures come compassion. 

So happy trails to all of you!

Sunday, November 14: Monte Sacro to Roma

 

My last day of hiking -- all urban.

A good start this morning with a buffet.

I was almost three miles from what was supposed to be my start, and it was the last time I saw a marker the whole day. I went from person to person, asking which way to go for the Basilica.

I am ready to go back to being a girl, but it will take a little work!

Look at these three!  Those are very expensive-looking feathers on their hats. They were happy to pose for me, and I was delighted to get a photo. I cannot find anything about these hats - I am guessing some type of secret society?  

Right outside the little cafe/bar where I was sitting was this statue.  I think he also had feathers on the side of his hat.

This photo and the next were on the corners of buildings, and I thought they were the most beautiful artwork I have seen on a building.

My guess is they represent Adam and Eve or maybe Antony and Cleopatra.

According to Romesite.com, "One of the most remarkable Rome landmarks, the monument of the first Italian king Vittorio Emanuelle II, is located next to the Piazza Venezia Square. The building is also called the 'Altara della Patria' – the altar of the fatherland – and commemorates the unification of Italy. Romans also use nicknames for it, such as 'typewriter' and 'wedding cake.' The colossal white building also contains a museum and the tomb of the unknown soldier, which is guarded by two soldiers."

Many beautiful bridges cross over the Tiber River.

At long last -- the end of the Via Francisco! The pope was speaking, so I could not get anywhere close to Saint Peter's Basilica, but I could hear his voice and see a tiny figure I guessed was him. But just being in the Piazza San Pietro at the end of the long journey was a cause for celebration.

More than a hundred scouts were racing to get near the crowd, already listening. I am sure they were late since it was about five minutes after twelve, and the sermon had already begun. I did not stay to hear because I wanted to get to my hotel in the Trastevere Area.  I had no idea where Trastevere was so I took a taxi!   And it was a good thing because just as I got in the cab, it started raining. 

I thought I needed to have a little celebration because, after all, Italy is all about the food, and I found this cute dessert shop.

I ordered the Mont Blanc Mandarino, and I practically swooned at the first bite.  OMG -- this tops any dessert that I have had anywhere in Italy.  

A look at the inside -- all cream and caramel and a hint of orange.  The base is chocolate cookie-like, and I have died and gone to heaven. Even that little doo-dad on top is edible chocolate.

Sooooo, how did I come to eat Indian food in Rome?  It was raining buckets, and I finally decided that I had to find somewhere for dinner.  I walked up one side of the street and down the other, not wanting to venture down any dark side streets. The only restaurant I saw open was across another street.  It looked very nice, so I wandered in.  The man immediately told me that they only serve Indian food, and I replied, "I like Indian food," which is true. He shrugged his shoulders and found me a table.  There were only Indian families eating there. I ordered chicken biryani because I didn't see shahi paneer korma, my favorite Indian recipe. Initially, I thought my biryani was very mild for Indian food, and then I had a bite that was so hot that it gave me hiccups. It continued to be very mild except for a bite here and a bite there. This was clearly authentic Indian food, and I loved it.  Every so often, someone from the kitchen came to check and see if I liked my meal.  They must never get anyone except people of Indian descent.

I asked for naan, but the waiter told me they only had pori, so I ordered it.  Much better than naan.  Pori is fried bread, and I could happily eat it with every meal or just by itself. I am a good Southern girl -- I understand fried. I was entertained by the large, boisterous family near me.  I adore Indian accents with their sing-song cadence.  Even though they spoke Italian, it still had that same happy sound.

So tomorrow, I have to find a pharmacy that gives the rapid COVID test to fly home on Tuesday.  Say a prayer for me. You will probably get one more post from me.  Kisses to you all!

Saturday, November 13: Monterotondo to Montesacro

 

Today was a reasonably easy day - 13.2 miles and only two small mountains to climb.

What a delicious breakfast I had.  There were two slices of blueberry tart and two slices of pineapple cake, with all of the flavors of pineapple upside-down cake. My Mom always made fabulous pineapple upside-down cake when I was growing up. Has pineapple just lost popularity?  I never see it in desserts anymore. There were also two slices of pound cake that I didn't try. And I didn't eat four portions of dessert -- only two -- one blueberry and one pineapple.

The Tenuta Grand Paradiso was sort of in the middle of nowhere, and I am not sure what the draw would be other than the Michelin quality restaurant. Tenuta means estate. Yesterday's taxi driver picked me up and dropped me off at the end of yesterday's hike.

This morning, my starting point was the Arco di Fausto Cecconi, a famous Italian aviator, and war hero who set the world aeronautical record for duration and distance in a closed-circuit non-stop flight lasting 67 hours and 13 minutes and covering 5088 miles.  He was killed in 1931 as a result of an in-air explosion. 

There were many beautiful estates today as I am bearing down on Rome.  When I saw this driveway, all I could think about was I wouldn't want to have to go up or down that driveway in snow and ice.

Looking back on Monterotondo. There was a long stretch where there were no markings. My first Camino angel warned me of dogs ahead, and then he waited in his jeep until I passed the guard dogs.  Off he went with a save.  My second Camino Angel was on a bicycle. Three young Italian men were riding their bikes, and one young man tried to tell me there was a problem dog ahead. All I understood was dog. He pointed just beyond me and then continued on his ride. As I stopped to get one of my hiking sticks out, he returned with a large bushy branch and gave it to me for protection.  How nice!

I am closing in on Monte Sacro, a suburb of Rome.  I went from total farmland to busy urban in the span of a small hill. Monte Sacro is known for the Plebian Revolt of 494 BC when the poor people took up residence in rebellion against the Patricians.

I stopped at a pretty little bar for a bite of lunch.  Another one of those bar sandwiches, but this one was cheese and tomato.  Bags of Fonzies were prominent in the potato chip rack, and I had to try them.  Something different.  They are pretty good, similar to Cheetos without the cheese.

I had included dinner at the hotel.  The dining room looked more like a room set up for a banquet rather than a restaurant, but looks are deceiving.  My first course was Bruschetta Mixta with one toast covered in truffles, one covered in tapenade, one with olive oil and garlic, and my favorite olive oil and fresh tomatoes.  

My secondi was Pollo al Limone -- your basic chicken piccata but no capers.  It was scrumptious, but chicken piccata is one of my favorite dishes, so it started with an advantage.

And dessert was a pastry with raspberry marmelata.  I am going to have to get control over my eating the very second I get home.  I have been a -- oink-oink -- pig on this trip.  

Tomorrow, Lord willin', I arrive in Rome.  It has been quite a journey, but it is not quite over yet.

Friday, November 12: Montelibretti to Monterotondo

 

 The Pescheria (fish seller) was in town, and cars were blocking the street to buy his fish.  He must come on a scheduled day of the week.

The little bakery where I had breakfast. Just the smells made my mouth water.

I had a hard time deciding what I wanted. It is hard to tell in a photo, but this croissant was striped red and green. It was delicious, a little sweet, and a little flakey.  The stripes ran all the way through.

My Italian guide.  Every time I walked through town, this gentleman was in front of his bar and would direct me to the correct location. He spoke a little English, and I sat outside with a glass of wine late yesterday afternoon where the locals were most curious about me, and he translated. Italy seems to be full of friendly people.

It was a good day for hiking in such a spectacular region.  

The scenery was a little different, with more green and more farmland.

There was plenty of up and down.

Lots of grapevines and olive trees.

This tree was outside a residence, and I thought it so dramatic.

The Torre della Fiora watch tower in the Macchia di Gattaceca nature reserve. The brick structure dates back to the 13th century.

Art abounds even in the middle of nowhere.

I rounded the corner and saw all the sheep.  This time there were about five dogs and a shepherd.

These two dogs followed me quite a ways. They are Maremmano-Abruzzese Sheepdogs which are considered an Old World European breed dating back to Roman times. They are prevalent here in Italy and make excellent guard dogs for both people and livestock.

Doesn't this road make you want to know if it goes straight up and over that mountain?

I couldn't get over how green the fields were.

As I was nearing Monterontondo, I spotted this Emu.  He was as curious about me as I was about him.

A side shot of him.  I didn't see any others in the field, so he must have been lonely.  Poor thing.

Gee, this was fun.  I had to cross this board over a bottomless-looking chasm.  It is a good thing that I am not particularly afraid of heights.  It looked rickety but was mostly sturdy as I walked across.

I see these bar sandwiches all over Italy, and they are way bigger -- like three times bigger -- than a diagonal half of one of our American sandwiches. I love the canned tuna in both Italy and Spain because it is better quality than we get at Kroger or Publix or wherever. This sandwich was dressed with fresh tomato slices and mayo on the softest bread imaginable. Move over Wonder Bread! 

I don't know what this is called, but it was yummy, crisp, filled with a thin layer of sweet vanilla custard. I stopped in this little bar in Monterotondo where I ordered the Sandwich and the dessert.  The Senora bartender (today's Camina Angel) called the transport company for me and it is the last day I have to use a transport service to the hotel and back.  For the last two days, I walk directly to my accommodations.  I bought the dessert to go but as soon as I got to my hotel room, I was only going to take one bite.  Ha Ha -- I ate the whole thing.

So the best meal of the trip was tonight.  This restaurant, clearly fine dining was incredible.  I started with spinach ravioli tossed in butter and fresh sage.  The pasta, homemade, was melt-in-your-mouth delicious.  Even the bread was a level above the normal excellent bread here in Italy.  

My secondi course was a thinly sliced pork tenderloin that was so tender I didn't need the knife.  It was covered in a really interesting tomato, maybe pepper sauce.  I had to sop up some of this rich sauce with the bread.  Totally expected and polite in Italy.  Even the potatoes that accompanied it were special. I am so stuffed that I think my eyes are bulging.  I was tempted to get dessert because I am sure that it would have been amazing but there was no room in my tummy. 

Today's mileage was 14.8. So good night and God bless!