Leon to Villavante

The morning dawned cold and clear.  It was no more than thirty-five degrees and I could see my breath as I raced along trying to keep warm.  By the time I reached the Rio Bernesga, I was toasty as long as I didn't stop.

I did stop for a small moment to take a photo of this lovely peacock.  None of my shouts would cause him to spread his brilliant feathers.

Houses in the hill.  I'll bet they were warm.  I could see the smoke rising from the stacks further back on the grass topped hill.

One of the most interesting churches I have come across.  This is the main entrance. The minor Basilica of the Virgen del Camino is dedicated to the Virgen del Camino, patron saint of Leon.  The  Basilica is governed by the Dominican order.  It was built in 1957.

The main altar is equally modern and ever so interesting.  I followed a  Dominican Priest inside and after I said my prayers and gave thanks, he wished me "Buen Camino."  Those Buen Caminos are so special to me.

Such interesting stained glass windows.  This photo was taken standing with my back to the main altar. It is the beautiful sight the parishioners see as they are leaving the Basilica.

This was a side door leading into the church.  I thought it magnificent.

Today had it's challenges.  One of which was to locate the alternate route that lead me to my destination cottage in Villavante.  If I stay on the main Camino, I miss the town I am staying in and that is usually disastrous in terms of added miles.  I found the correct route after some desperate arrow prayers.

Loved this sign.  Note the bathroom icon at the bottom right.  I could have posed for this.  The country side was wide open and didn't lend to private bushes.

This was the oasis and most importantly, the tent on the right was a very modern toilet...clean as could be and even had soft paper.  I am always amazed at the people who volunteer to provide services for the peregrinos.  I could have had coffee or tea or fruit or cake.  No diet coke but I didn't stay beyond the very necessary bathroom break.  It was all for free.

Love the storks!

This little town had only three houses, a tiny church and the pilgrim oasis but look...keeping in shape is important in Spain.

My lunch companion.  I had two large pieces of gluten-free pizza diavlo.  I shared it with him and he was busy pulling the cheese off the top. He ate it first.  Then he spit out all of the vegetables and finally begrudgingly ate the crust!  

Look what a beautiful road.  I felt strong and I felt empowered today.

Church bells and I heard them ring in the most delightful way. 

The mountain are looming and calling to me with their snow covered peaks like the fingers of the devil, beckoning, tempting.  I can almost feel their lure. There is never more a time that I question everything than when struggling up the steep side of the high mountains.  And there is never a time when I am more sure of the answers as when I stand on the peak of a great mountain.  God lives with an exclamation point in the moments when I can see the whole world below me, chasing away all doubts and fears.

Camino tributes.

So I stop at a bar in Mazarife for a diet coke and they give me these potatoes.  They look pretty ordinary but au contraire!  They were topped with some kind of a very garlicky sauce.  My favorite tapa since the croquettas.  I had the opportunity to call for a pick up at this bar.  My hotel would have fetched me and then taken me back to the trail tomorrow.  BUT since the hotel is sorta on the trail I decided to walk the extra six and a half miles bringing my total to 21.3 and 48,975 steps.  I was feeling invincible after a good day off.  I will have a shorter day tomorrow and my feet will thank me.

Advertisement for my hotel but no mileage.  I stayed at this hotel on my last journey so I knew it was in the boonies.  I so clearly remembered it being near the railroad tracks and I was right.  I would have never found it had I not stayed there before.  Last time I walked the whole distance also but I didn't have the option for a pickup.

When I got to the hotel, there was a convention (?) of clergy and/or priests.  I sat on the stairs like a child too young to go to the party and peeked at the clergy.  They were loud and laughing and drinking lots of red wine.  Obviously not a baptist convention.  It is good to see members of the clergy enjoying themselves.  I am sure they have enough serious business everyday. Today is Spanish Labor Day and a national holiday. So they didn't have responsibilities.

This is my beautiful hotel.  It was one of my best memories from my first Camino and I am looking forward to dinner.