Santiago

Yesterday was 19.6 (counts some walking around Santiago) and  45,189 steps.  As soon as I got my certificate I made a bee-line for the gelato shop and had a double scoop of stratciatella.  I thought I had certainly earned it.

I am staying at the San Martin Pinario Hospederia which once housed a monastery.  My room has a single bed (twin) and there is enough room to walk beside the bed.  It is plain but very nice.  I wonder how many monks before me stayed in this exact room.  I am sure the bathroom is updated.  It is one of the hardest hotels in Santiago to get a reservation because it is directly across from the Cathedral.  I think priests and maybe nuns still live in part of it.  TV has been so unimportant that I didn't realize until this morning that I don't have one in my simple monk's room.

The front side of the Santiago Cathedral.

The backside of the Cathedral.  My hotel is directly across from this side.

The main altar is one of the most ornate and truly beautiful altars in Spain.  It is certainly my favorite, even with the scaffolding.  I had the most wonderful surprise today.  I got to experience the botafumerio again.  And when I say experience, I don't just mean see. It encompases all of the senses. Today was the most exciting ceremony that I have been a part of.  

A close up of Santiago.  There are three James' in the new testament of the bible.  This one, Santiago, is James the Greater, son of Zebedee.  He was born Jacob and was the twin brother of Esau. There is also James the Less, the author of the Letter of James (in the bible) and James the Wise who was the brother of Jesus.

Every time that I have been to the Santiago Mass, this little nun has been the songbird.  She has the most crystal voice I have ever heard and she sings acapella.  I really believe that I am hearing an angel. What a gift from God.

And while the congregation sang, someone was playing this amazing organ.  Dan Stokes would have loved this one.

The lights were blazing during the entire mass and the church was packed.  Suddenly, there was excitement in the building.  I never know if I am going to get to see the Botafumerio becasue they only do it on special religious days or if someone gives a lot of money (I have heard $350 - $550 Euros) But the air practically crackled right before the swinging of the thurible.

This thurible weighs somewhere around three hundred and fifty pounds and it takes eight men to swing it the full width of the chapel.  In the old days, incense was used to cover the smell of stinky pilgrims and today was no exception.  Someone near me was pretty ripe.

You can see the incense smoking as it begins it long upward arc. Breathtaking.  It always brings tears to my eyes.  Well, somewhat because of the smoke but mostly because it is such a special gift to see.

This is the pulley, high in the church dome.

There were twelve priests and the mass was in Spanish.  Even though I don't understand the words, it is still a meaningful experience that I wouldn't trade for anything. People were so moved by the mass today that they began clapping at the conclusion of the botofumerio.   I have never heard this in the Santiago mass.

Afterwards, I walked around the church.  I just wasn't ready to leave. This is James (the same Santiago) who is also known as James the Moorslayer.

Just a few of the magnificent side chapels as you wander around the church.

After mass, I was starving.  It was 1:30 and I had gotten to the church at 10:40 to get a good seat for the noon mass.  And it was a good thing because the pilgrim section was filling up.  Lucky for me there was one spot...front row center.  Hallajuah!  Afterwards I went to my best-loved little tapas bar and this was my favorite...a stuffed pepper.

Santiago always has a festive atmosphere with lots of street music to fill the senses.

The feet of the pilgrim.  

Everyone learns something on the Camino and I am no different. Wisdom comes step by step but you cannot go through life looking only at your feet. While it is important to look down so you don’t trip, you must also raise your head to see the journey you are on at that precise moment in time. It is important to look back because if you don’t, you will miss some of the most beautiful scenery of all. ..memories. You don’t always know how special something is until you view it in hindsight. But if you only look backward you will eventually trip and fall. It is important to look to each side because of the beautiful scenery that is today and to give you perspective. Certainly, you must look ahead to the horizon, to see where you are going. Without looking ahead, you can have no goals...no dreams. But above all, you must look up and thank God for all of your wonderful blessings. All you have to do is look around to see that we are indeed some of the most blessed people on earth.

Buen Camino for wherever your trail may lead you.

Rua to the Compostela de Santiago

The last day of hiking is always bittersweet.  There is a part of me that already starts to head home and make lists and return to the real world.  There is a part of me that savors every last step along "the way."

The fruit tress in Spain are loaded with blooms this year.  Must have been just the right amount of rain.  Those days that I slogged through the mud will pay off for the people who live here.

Camino marker.

The tiny church at Sello was open for the peregrinos.  I think there must have been quite a few people who only walked the last day because the trail was frothing with people.  And they looked too crisp to have been walking very far.  I could tell the pilgrims who walked the whole distance.  We were pretty bedraggled and I could smell a few of them.  Hopefully, that did not apply to me!

The altar with St James in the center.

One of my favorite sounds on the Camino is the "toot-toot" of the Pananderia or the "beep-beep" of the Pescadero. In the small villages, you can hear the truck come through blowing it's horn. The women run outside to buy fresh baked bread or just caught fish.  With the bread trucks, if the person is not home they tie the bread to the front door in a baggie.  Can you imagine how nice it would be to have those services!  Especially some little town like Tiptonville, Tennessee and these villages make the towns in Lake County look like the big time.

Beautiful!

The Pilgrims Memorial is located at the first glimpse of the Compostela de Santiago.  The Monte do Gozo is also known as the Hill of Joy because it is where pilgrims get their first views of the three spires of the Cathedral. I would also call it the hallelujah hill because is the last hill.  

There it is in the distance.  A distance that so many have traveled so far and with such difficulty.  There are so many stories along the Camino of struggle and heartbreak and tributes to loved ones.

This little chapel is located next to the hill of joy. It is called The Capella San Marcos and is believed to contain the head of Saint Marcos.  It is the last place of worship to say those Camino prayers before you are in Santiago.

Woohoo!  The city limits of the Santiago de Compostela!

This is the chapel inside the building where you get your certification of completion.  All of those stamps I collected were examined for authenticity and dates before my certificate was awarded.  I was so blessed.  I went directly to the building.  I did not pass go, collect $200, etc and my wait was only 35 minutes.  I had heard that it was taking three hours due to the number of pilgrims. There was a pilgrim mass at noon so many people were attending the mass and I thought it might be a good time to go the the pilgrim office.  It was!  I said prayers for all of you, gave thanks for my journey and my quick wait in line.  I will do the same in the Cathedral!

Arzua to Rua

Again today, we walked through miles of wooded landscape.  Very shady and very nice.  There was quite a bit of up and down but for shorter periods of time.  This morning was even more crowded because the town I stayed in was where the Northern Route comes into the Camino Francais.  The Northern route is not nearly as popular as "The Way" so at least it didn't double.  There aren't newbies hiking the Northern Route because it is the most difficult of the Spanish Caminos.  I walked that one two years ago and loved it.

This fella was carving large staffs to sell to the pilgrims.  There is only today and tomorrow before Santiago and you would have a problem getting one home at least if you had to fly. But they were beautifully carved

A memorial.

Another memorial and this one specifically says "Peregrino" so it must have been someone who died enroute.

Look at these little posers!  I love dogs too but my alpha girl (cat) would not be happy if I got a dog. And considering that we are just her slaves...

A beautiful fountain and rest area...no toilets.  They are all in the bars.

I love Camino surprises.  I rounded the corner and this sign was playing beautiful classical music.  I couldn't identify the piece but I stood for a bit to enjoy the music.

Somewhere just past these beautiful blooms, I managed to whack my hand with a stinging nettle.  So it is red and feels like it is on fire.  AND I have two more spider bites. I have had more spider bites on my upper torso and neck.  I think they are tiny little spiders that land on my hat and crawl down.  They itch like crazy. Usually spiders bit you two or three times and that has been the case here.  I get spider bites at home too.

The great forest!  I saw many people darting into the trees for a little conversation with nature.   Speaking of bathrooms...one of the things that drives me crazy about Spain yet makes me laugh is that all of the bathroom lights are on timers. So you better pay attention to where the automatic switch is or you will be seated in the dark.  And they are good for about ten to fifteen seconds...barely enough time to get situated.  And just to make matters worse, the Spanish put the toilet paper in the most impossible places...like down almost on the ground and behind the toilet.  You  have to be a contortionist to reach it and finding it in the dark is mission impossible.

I a m staying at one of my favorite places.  I have stayed here before and I was hoping when I saw the photo of the hotel that it was that marvelous resort.  Last time I had the attic room but this time, I am staying in the just built wing...you can smell the new.  And I can have dinner whenever I want!  YES!   Another of my annoyances with Spain is that you cannot find food between about 4:00 and 8:00.  They close all of the kitchens and I am always hungry for dinner earlier than 8:00 after hiking all day.  But in Spain...do as the Spanish do and as an American, I try to always be gracious and smile.