Dingle to Dunquin 9/24/26

Good morning to you all. Sorry I didn't post yesterday, but my hard drive is dying.  I couldn't get it to work, no matter how hard I tried. Thankfully, it's working today.  Just know that at some point during this trip, it may die for good.

I left Dingle today and walked along the docks.  Twice, because I left something at the hotel and had to go back. It added almost three miles to my walk.

Dingle's shores were lined with art.  I especially liked this boat sculpture.

I had every type of trail imaginable.I stared with some very steep up.

Then, I walked about two miles on the soft sand, which was hard on my legs. 

Walking along the water’s edge with the mountains in the background was so peaceful.  I have always loved the sound of the shore.

There were numerous bridges to cross.

My guide information said, “Your journey west continues into some of the wilder and more spectacular reaches of the Dingle Peninsula.” It was a stunning trek.

The minute I left the shore.  I had some brutal uphill, and it just kept going.

I didn’t turn the camera at an angle.  This is how steep it was.

The cove of Ventry was the site of a great mythological battle that lasted a year and a day. Fionn Mac Cumhaill and the Fianna were defending Ireland against a coalition of kings from across the known world, with Diarmuid Ua Duibhne performing the most extraordinary individual feats of the battle.

 The battle turned when Fionn’s allies from the Otherworld and from Ireland’s supernatural powers added their strength to the Fianna. Dáire Donn himself was killed in single combat—some versions have Fionn kill him; others give the honor to Diarmuid or another champion. With the king of the invaders dead, the coalition dissolved and the survivors fled to their ships. Ireland was defended. Ventry Beach was allegedly covered in the dead of half the world.

Breathtaking scenery.

I staggered into my B&B after 17.5 tough,  mountain miles.  I swear, I didn’t think I could take another step. I sat on the floor, drank a Diet Coke, debating whether to walk the block to a pub or just eat from my backpack. I should have gone with the pack.  I have some lovely Irish cheese with cranberries.  Actually, my food wasn’t terrible.  I ordered beef stew, and it was mediocre. I have been spoiled with excellent stews so far.

The bar’s claim to fame is that they are the most westerly bar in Europe.  I did have an excellent glass of New Zealand wine.

Good night and God Bless.

 

Dingle Day Off 9/22/26

It's heavenly to have a day off.  I lounged around for a while, then took my dirty clothes to be laundered. 

Most people visit An Díseart to see the stained-glass windows by Harry Clarke, Ireland's most renowned stained-glass artist. The windows at An Díseart Institute of Celtic Spirituality and Culture (formerly the Chapel of the Sacred Heart at the Presentation Convent) consist of six two-light panels, each depicting a scene from Christ's life.  To be honest, I am not entirely sure I matched each artwork with the correct story.  The information was very confusing.

THE SERMON ON THE MOUNT

Seeing the crowds he went up on the mountain. And he opened his mouth and taught them,

saying: "Blessed are the poor in spirit, for theirs is the Kingdom of Heaven. Blessed are those with

mourn, for they shall be comforted, Blessed are the meek, for they shall inherit the earth

(Matthew, 5: 1-5)

THE BAPTISM OF JESUS

"In those days Jesus came from Nazareth of Galilee and was baptized by John in the Jordan.  When

he came up out of the water, immediately he saw the heavens opened and the Spirit descending on

him like a Dove; and a voice came from heaven: "Thou art my beloved son: with Thee I am well

pleased." (Mark 1:9-11)

. LET THE LITTLE CHILDREN COME TO ME

"And they were bringing children to him, that he might touch them: “ the disciples rebelled.But when Jesus, saw it he was indignant, and said to them: "Let the children come to me, hinder them; for no such belongs the kingdom of God." (Mark 10 :13-14)

THE VISIT OF THE MAGI 

"And going into the house they saw the child with Mary, his mother, and they fell down and worshipped him. Then opening their treasures, they offered him gifts: gold, frankincense and myrrh”

(Matthew 2:11)

 THE AGONY IN THE GARDEN

Father, if thou art willing, remove this cup from me: nevertheless, not my will but Thine be done?

And there appeared to him an angel from Heaven, strengthening him. And being in an agony he

prayed the more earnestly; and His sweat became as great drops of blood falling down upon the

ground. (Luke 22: 42-44)

 JESUS APPEARS TO MARY MAGDALENE

"Jesus said to her: “Woman, why are you weeping? Whom do you seek?" Supposing him to be the

gardener, she said to him: "Sir, if you have carried him away, tell me where you have laid him, and I

will take him away." Jesus said to her: “Mary." She turned and said to him in Hebrew: “Rabbon” (teacher) 

John 20 (15-16)

I went to learn about Nano Nagle (1718 – 1784), who founded the Sisters of the Presentation of the Blessed Virgin Mary, known worldwide today as the Presentation Sisters. Born into a Catholic family in Ballygriffin, County Cork, she grew up at a time when Ireland’s Penal Laws denied education to Catholics unless they converted to the Church of Ireland. 

Like many of her background, Nano was sent to France for her education and later returned to live in Dublin. The sudden deaths of her parents and sister brought her back to Ballygriffin, where she considered entering an Ursuline convent abroad. But she was persuaded that her calling was to remain in Ireland, serving her own people at a time when poverty and ignorance were deepened by religious persecution. The above mural depicts her as a wealthy lady.

At twenty-nine, Nano began teaching poor children in secret, moving from house to house by lantern light to avoid drawing the authorities' attention. This earned her the title The Lady of the Lantern. Her dedication grew quickly — soon she was teaching over 200 children. Determined to provide a lasting foundation for her work, she opened her first school on Philpott Lane in Cork City. Over time, she established two schools for girls and five for boys, providing not only literacy but also faith formation, moral guidance, and care for the poorest of the poor.  In 1777, she founded Ireland's first convent. Her tireless commitment to others came at a cost to her own health. She died on 26 April 1784, with her final words said to be: “Look after the children — the children of the poor.”

Portraits of the Nuns with Nano Nagle at the top.

The chapel where the Nuns worshipped.

Hidden behind stone walls in Dingle lies a quiet garden of white crosses — the Nuns’ Graveyard, a place that feels like stepping back in time

In 1890, Tom Baker opened a restaurant in Dingle. It is now Dingle's oldest licensed premises, advertised as "Dingle's oldest table. Ireland's finest table.” Original stone walls, warm candlelight, and a dining room that felt both timeless and intimate.  Reminiscent of Chasen’s in LA or Jack Fry’s in Louisville, it exuded history and class.

I started with the mushroom soup.  It had some cream in it, but I wouldn't describe it as cream of mushroom soup.  For a mushroom lover, it hit a home run.

For my main course, I ordered Breast of Chicken Stuffed with Bread, mixed herbs, and onions with mushroom sauce.  Ever so good.  The succulent chicken was flavorful with a crisp skin. YUM!

Thank you, Marsha Harlow, for telling me that sticky toffee pudding is actually Irish and not English, as everyone seems to believe.  I felt compelled to order it, and now when I get home, I will be researching fat farms. Look out, Gordon Ramsey, Lord Baker is coming after you. It was fabulous.

Although I could ot go in, I had to say a prayer at Saint James. - no relation - no Saints in my bloodline.  We do have a bunch of fun people who can tell a story.  The church has been here since the 1300s.

Only in Ireland, this is a combination bar and hardware store.  What could be more fun than having a couple of pints and going home with a chainsaw?

Sacred Heart University is a school where students learn Irish (Gaeilge).  It is constitutionally defined as the national and first official language of the Republic of Ireland. It is a Celtic language with three main dialects: Munster, Connacht, and Ulster.

What a fun day off.

Good night and God Bless!

 

Annascaul to Dingle 9/21/26

Today was an absolutely stunning day.  I started out pretty peppy, and I knew it would be at least a 15.6-mile hike.  At about mile 5, I was really tired.  Not a good sign.  I plodded along until lunch, when I stopped to eat the tuna sandwich that my B&B had packed for me.  That was just what I needed to get my second wind. I was good to go.  At about mile 11, I ate a Snickers bar, and it was Katy bar the door.  Whoohoo - I am coming in hot.

These stunning days take a lot of hard work and upward climb. I didn’t think the long incline would ever end.

Absolutely breathtaking scenery.

Start them young on those long hikes!

Minard's Castle, perched on a rocky hill overlooking Minard Bay, was built by the Fitzgeralds (the Knights of Kerry) and was the largest fortress on the Dingle Peninsula before Cromwellian forces partially blew it up in 1650. The ruins sit on private property and are closed to the public because of their dangerous condition.  It is famously featured in the 1970 film Ryan's Daughter. 

Dingle is the main embarkation port for the pilgrimage to the shrine of St. James at Compostela in Spain.  Also known as "The Way".

St John’s Well is a dry-stone-built well with a small cross-inscribed stone standing at the rear, while a stone marked with a cross scratched by pilgrims lies toward the front of the well. Pilgrims flock to the well on 29 August, circling and saying the rosary. A rope fence surrounded the area where pilgrims can bring something to attach to it or, as many did, tie a piece of greenery and say a special prayer. My prayer was for Mary P and many of my other friends.

The higher I climbed, the more beautiful it was.

Here is an unusual sight in such a natural area: a children’s bouncy house and slide. I could see it from miles away. Sadly, it was behind a fence, or I might have given it a go.

A fast-flowing stream created about a mile of deep, sticky mud a little further along.  Once again, my boots were wet and now really mucky.

All day, the mountains on the other side were covered in clouds and mist. I saw lots of sheep, but this one firmly declared herself queen of the rock.

I am like the horse to the barn.  I have about four more miles to go, and all I had to do was get to the top of this long incline to see Dingle.

I had a fabulous dinner in a restaurant, not a pub.  The Land to Sea has a Michelin Star and the food lived up to it.

Believe it or not, they had an early-bird special, but it wasn't priced like a diner.  I chose the two-selection prix fixe. My salad was a Dingle Goat Cheese and Heritage Tomato salad with Basil pesto, Balsamic Reduction, and Pine nuts.  What a fabulous combination of textures and flavors.  It had whipped goat cheese, real tomatoes straight from the garden, dressed with olive oil and balsamic, plus a touch of something really sweet to balance the flavors.  Lastly, it had toasted pine nuts.

My entree was perfectly cooked Dingle Hake with asparagus, sautéed fresh samphire, and a Champagne sauce. I had to look up samphire.  It is a sea vegetable, and it tasted like really skinny green beans.  The best part of the dish was the cooked cabbage under the hake. I totally enjoyed every bite of this unusual combination of flavors.

I finally have a day off.  I need to do some laundry and get myself organized.  Plus, I have a strenuous-with-an-exclamation-point trek coming up in a couple of days.  Good to rest my tired body.

Good night and God Bless!