Wednesday, September 16, 2026

Doolin to Ballyvaughn 9/16/26



Good morning, at least when I took this photo


My hosts, Pat and Rita, own the Pairc Lodge in Doolin, Ireland.  The beautiful dog is Rex, and he could be named Rotten Rex.  He is the sweetest thing and is pampered by the owners and guests alike.


Sometimes things just go wrong.  I will take 75% of the blame.  I looked over my information numerous times, and I missed/wasn’t clear that I was to take the luggage transport to a village about 9 miles away to start today’s trek. Originally,  I couldn’t connect with the trail map, and I couldn’t figure out which way to go.  Finally, after about 2 miles, I realized I had walked completely the wrong direction.  Just call me Wrong-Way James. After I had walked 14.5 miles, I realized that I still had 9 to go, and it was about 3:30. I was in a beautiful place for a number of miles, but there were no hotels, no bars, nothing but beautiful scenery.  


This area is called the Burren.

 

The Burren is a stunning, moon-like limestone landscape in County Clare made of cracked grey limestone pavement, underground caves, and fossils. 


Beautiful scenery.


And flowers!


A bar!  Is it a mirage?  Nope. After much effort and a few prayers, I managed to book an Uber, but I had to pay a pretty penny for the driver to come out to this remote area.


Look at these sweet faces.


I am staying two nights at the Hylands Burren Hotel in Ballyvaughan.  The red building is my hotel, and it extends for a half-block out the rear of that building. It is quite nice - rather posh. Ballyvaughan was originally a fishing village, but now it caters equally to boaters, sailors, and tourists.


In Ballyvaughan, I have seen several of these new houses with modern thatched roofs.  I think they look terrific, very reminiscent of the past without the upkeep!

Just to add to my aching feet.  I walked another mile to Monks Ballyvaughan, a fine-dining restaurant with an interesting story. Monks Ballyvaughan is steeped in history, with origins dating back to the late 1800s. Once home to Peter J. O'Loghlen, a publican and Clare TD (elected member of Congress) in the 1930s, the house welcomed notable guests, including Éamon de Valera, an Irish statesman who served as president of Ireland from 1959 to 1973. During Ireland's turbulent past, the building withstood threats from the Black and Tans and remained a symbol of resilience. Situated by Ballyvaughan Pier, the premises once played a vital role in supplying North Clare, with the O'Loghlen family serving as skilled boat pilots guiding essential goods ashore.


I ordered the fish pie with salmon, smoked haddock & prawns, fennel cream, vine tomatoes, parmesan crumb, and side salad. It was a velvety combination of succulent fish, lightened by halved cherry tomatoes with just the right touch of fennel and topped with buttery crumbs.

So all’s well that ends well.  It was still a terrific day but I am pooped.

Good night and God bless.












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