I thought I knew how to get back on the Camino, but I walked up the big hill, only to find that I had to go down the big hill, only to discover that I had to go up the big hill in a slightly different way only to come back down. I was tired before I really got on the trail. I should have known it would start at the Basilica except I didn't realize there was a Basilica. I thought I would start at the church from yesterday. It was raining when I started, and one nice lady offered me her umbrella for my journey. I didn't take it, but I thought that was so very kind.
This is the Basilica in Bolsena. There is a miracle associated with it. According to Eucharistic Miracles by Joan Carroll Cruz, "In 1263 a German priest, Peter of Prague, stopped at Bolsena while on a pilgrimage to Rome. He is described as being a pious priest, but one who found it difficult to believe that Christ was actually present in the consecrated Host. While celebrating Holy Mass above the tomb of St. Christina (located in the church named for this martyr), he had barely spoken the words of Consecration when blood started to seep from the consecrated Host and trickle over his hands onto the altar and the corporal."
For a Basilica this was a rather meager main altar.
So there are a few bears in Italy, but they are on the critically endangered list. I felt a lot better about encountering one. I went down a very steep muddy hill and as I was carefully walking down, a border collie mix came flying by me, his paws kicking up mud in all directions. Pretty soon, as I rounded the corner, I heard the baas of many sheep. He was turning this large herd of sheep, maybe 300 of them, in the opposite direction to head home. Those working dogs are amazing. No master in sight, but I can just imagine, by his haste, that his owner told him to go get the sheep.
Look at this tractor parked in a cave. It sure cost a lot less than our fairly new garage.
And this was a residence built into another cave.
I walked through a nature preserve for several miles.
Although the trees were gnarly and there was much scrub, the entire forest floor was covered in these dime-sized flowers. Beautiful.
Looking back at the Lake Bolsena as I neared Montefiascone.
It rained all day, and at the end, it poured! I couldn't find my hotel, and I wandered and wandered, finally ending in a butcher shop to ask again about where my hotel was located, and the man (who didn't speak but a few words of English) tried to tell me how to go. Meanwhile, I am dripping water all over his floor. He finally motioned for me to follow him. He locked his store, and I thought he was going to point me in the correct location, but he motioned me to the passenger side of his delivery truck. It would have been so rude of me to decline so in I got. Turns out I was fairly close but he drove a little around the area and pointed some things out for me to see. And then he drove me to the door. What kindness. This mural was on the gates leading into the old town. My mileage today was 14.8 sloppy miles.
One of the things he pointed out was the Cathedral of Saint Marguerite. He was insistent that I walk back to see it. So after I checked in and dry, I got my umbrella and headed to it. Look at how foggy it was.
I would truly have hated to miss this. It was one of the most beautiful cathedrals that I have ever seen, not large, not formed in the shape of a cross but exquisite. It was very tall and airy. My photos do not do it justice.
The main ceiling.
It was very woman-centric. All of the paintings showed women, and several of them were paintings of Nuns in full habit.
The ceiling over the main altar.
The sign outside the Cathedral.
The narrow streets in the old town with the Cathedral in the background.
I am staying in an old historic hotel. I am in the attic space with a dormered room. It is lovely, and this is looking from my little balcony at the old town. For the past three nights, I have had a tiny cot- sized single bed. Tonight I have a large room with a king-sized bed. No bath-tub though.
Dinner is not until 8:00 so I will bid you Buona Notte!
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