Cassio to Berceto 8/26/23

 

What an absolutely magnificient and blessed day!

Right after I started climbing, pant-pant, gasp-gasp, I came across this enormous cross, "La Croce di Cerene."

I saw suchawe inspiring scenery today.

I had to climb a fence using this ladder.  I would have been more cautious, had I know there was an giant spiderweb at the top.  I can deal with snakes, but I am afraid of spiders.  No one was home in the web - thank goodness. 

There were a number of these little figures in Castellano.

I thought they were so cute.

It was at about this time I went into panic mode.  I stopped at a church for lunch and realized I no longer had my iPad.  Earlier, I had stopped for a little snack.  I must have taken it out of my pack to look for my food and left it.  OMG  I was a little more than half way to my destination.  I literally ran, (praying the whole time) two plus miles back to where I stopped earlier.  There it was, in all of its bright pink glory. Thank you God! 

Getting close to Berceto.

When I got back to Berceto, there was a wedding. Look at that gorgeous dress.  The attendees must have thrown a two gallon bucket of rice/grain at the bride and groom.

They were a lovely couple and I would guess in their forties.  It was at a Catholic church, so either it was a first or they had a dispensation.

At last night's festivities and again at breakfast this morning, I met Arnold and Carla from the Netherlands.  They didn't have to tell me they were making the trip on bicycles.  He was about 6'4 and she was at least 6 feet.  They were fit, slim, and plus 50.  They told me the festivities were some sort of cultural exchange.

At 5:30 or so, I decided to have a glass of the Italian version of Proseco.  The gentle breeze was refreshing, and it just felt right to sit in the square and enjoy life. I was thinking how much fun last night was, and I would probably not again see anything like it in this life.  Then I heard "Viva la Mexico" and singing headed my way. I was front row, center for a smaller production than yesterday. The women were beautiful and the men were strutting their stuff. I love that foot stomping style of Mexican show-off.  I have great admiration for the Mexican people.  I find them to be very hard-working and fun loving.

This time I also got to see some native Mexican folk dancing.

I am not sure who this whirling dervish represented, but he was certainly athletic.  I was tired just watching him. Impressive.

Then came a line of about 15 huge farm vehicles beeping their horns and full of families wearing green green tee shirts.

There seemed to be lots of Massey- Fergusons as well as other familiar brands. I have a soft spot for farmers because of my Dad's family.

I was able to take a photo of one of the shirts, thanks to this man's cooperation. It was so much fun and so easy to get caught up in the spirit of the celebration.

My B & B has a little restaurant attached to it that only serves Le Piadine which is evidently the new rage in Europe.  I would describe it as a crispy pancake. with various fillings.  I ordered Lago d'achille which turned out to be sushi tuna (not my fav) with caraamalized onions (yum) and pistachio pesto (double yum)  It was quite good even the raw tuna.  I still don't like much of things called bait but a little is okay.

Tonight was the most glorious night with the wind whistling through the tress cooling the air. It all smelled so fresh.  It was just a night to walk around and be glad to be alive.  All of the little surprises today are the reason that I love to hike.  You never know what the next day brings.  

Until tomorrow!

Fornova to Cassio (night in Berceto) 8/25.23

 

What a glorious day!  Finally - back in the mountains.

I saw several little picnic spots today.  Of course, never when I wanted one.  LOL

As I climb, it just gets better and better!

Very little today was flat.  Hallelujah!

And there was quite a bit of shade.

It's not much prettier than an ancient village in the distance for a good photo op.

Was this sign helpful?  No!  But you couldn't go wrong since the trails converged about a mile later.

I had this incredible vista at the highest point of today's hike.

Uphill and rocky.  I was feeling strong today.  "I am Woman" - hear me roar.  Thank you, 

Helen Reddy - RIP.

So this was a big deal.  As I was headed this way, several people mentioned that I would see the famous rocks.

There was a tribute - all in Italian-  so I cannot tell you exactly what it said, but it honored the stone masons who had contributed the materials for the Cathedrals and churches in this part of Italy.

This could be the best sandwich I had had in my entire life.  And no, it wasn't because I was tired, hot, and hungry.  The focaccia bread was freshly baked, soft on the inside, and crunchy on the outside.  It had that incredible ham, famous in this area, plus soft goat cheese, tomatoes with actual taste, lettuce, and mayo.  I am trying to figure out what it is about Italian mayo that makes it so good.  I have half of it to picnic tomorrow.

What a treat I was in for when I got to Berceto.  There was a festival.  I felt like I had been transported to Old Mexico, including the ah, ya, ya, ya song with lots of yips.

There must have been at least 200 performers.

And all sorts of instruments.  At one point, I felt like I was at an orchestra performance.  Such beautiful music.  I saw three trombones, a flute, a saxophone, and, of all things, a harp. 

There was even a group of men who performed tricks with a rope.  There were lots of sombreros, which have to be Mexican rather than Spanish. But I am in Italy?

So many beautiful women - no blonds among them.  Although I did see one Asian guy.  I never did find out what the celebration was, and I also looked it up online.  But, who cares, it was fun and such a special treat.

I had included dinner tonight.  I don't know how Italians have so many incredible pastas.  Tonight was the pasta known as "little ears." I can't think of the name of it.  It had fresh tomatoes, basil, olives, and cheese.  Yum!  I declined a main course and even a salad.  Too much food!  I will be as big as a house when I get home.

Although this looks like creme de menthe, it is the glass that is green.  Dessert was similar to a tart lemon margarita without the booze.  It was light and refreshing.

So I waddled back to my room.  Hope your dinner is as good as mine.  Viva Italia!

Fidenza to Fornova-di-Taro 8/24/23

 Good morning or afternoon, as the case may be.

I was scheduled for a 22-mile mountain hike today.  What were they thinking?  Even the official guidebook breaks it into two days due to the strenuousness of it.  I decided to take the train halfway.  I just kinda picked out a place I could get a train to.  I rode from Fidenza, changed trains in Fornova, and took a tiny train to Medesano.  I am not sure it dawned on me initially that I was walking back to Fornova, where I changed trains.  It didn't matter because I wanted to walk some.  The train let me off in the middle of nowhere and in the middle of these weeds.  I was the only one who got off the train.  People looked at me funny, but at least I didn't hear no banjoes.

Once I got out of the weeds, I had a nice bicycle path for several miles.  Look at these beautiful grapes.

Nine miles later, after passing the Fornova Train station again, I found Bar Paradise, and it was.  OMG - those Coke Zeros taste so good on a hot day.

Fornovo di Taro is a small town in the province of Parma (like the cheese!) located about 62 miles west of Bologna and 16 miles southwest of Parma (the town.)  I had to cross this long bridge as soon as I left Paradise.

Fornova lies on the east bank of the Taro River.  I suspect during the spring, the river is much more significant.  It was only a tickle today.

At the end of the bridge were two sets of these stairs.  If you look at the wooden rail between the bricks and the stairs, it is designed so you can walk your bicycle down.  I have not been that before.  Pretty clever, these Eye-tal-ians.

Santa Maria Assunta a Fornovo is a Romanesque-style church that has been documented since 854 

I am amazed at some of these churches and buildings that have survived so many wars and disasters.

The church of Fornova was small and unassuming, except for a carved stone altarpiece and pulpit.  It has enormous historical significance for pilgrims of old because there was only one pass crossing the Apennine Mountains. Now there are several.  I will cross it tomorrow.

The main altarpiece depicts the Life of the Italian St. Margaret, the patron saint of the falsely accused, hoboes, homeless, insane, orphaned, mentally ill, midwives, penitents, single mothers, reformed prostitutes, stepchildren, and tramps.  The ol' gal has quite a history.

Part of a carved stone pulpit from the 11th century.

I have been craving salads with lots of salt and vinegar (some olive oil also because it comes with the vinegar), but it is the vinegar and salt that I cannot get enough of. Lunch of the Gods!  Usually, I picnic so this was a special treat and so enjoyable.  It had the wonderful tuna that you only get in Europe and even some corn.

I love signs, and I love cats.  This adorable sign was on a shoe repair shop.

I am not sure how you get your bike up this.

I met the man who owns the B & B here, and he drove me to a beautiful location in an old stone village called Monte Vizzano. He carried my heavy suitcase up three flights of stairs and I think he split the seat out of his pants. Oops.  I didn't see any private parts.  He then picked me up and took me back for dinner. with different pants.  He owns the B & B, the bar, the restaurant and a hotel.  Hard working people in these small towns.

Taggatelli caserecci al ragu di cinghiale.  I wasn't sure what I was ordering and still not sure what I ate but it was really good.  It had both noodles and gnocchi, tomatoes, seasonings. and a little beef. I also had a green salad which I can't get enough of. And of course good bread and vino bianco.

Looking out of my village window.

A street in the village.

So tomorrow is another day and another kilometer.  Sweet dreams and God bless!