Ohau to Takapo

I had a short drive today.  It took me a little less than two hours to get to Tepako. It turns out its name has been misspelled for more than 100 years. Takapō, meaning "to leave in haste at night," is the traditional Māori name given to the lake. 

According to the plaque, "the monument was erected by the runholders of the Mackenzie County and those who also appreciate the value of the Collie dog without the help of which the grazing of this mountain country would be impossible." The plaque was erected in 1968. In the 1850s, runholders leased extensive areas of pasture from the government for their sheep flocks, paying annual licenses of no more than £2 per acre assessed per head of livestock. I suspect some of those families are pretty wealthy by now.

With its renowned Church of the Good Shepherd, pristine blue waters, and crystal clear night skies, Takapo is a favorite chill spot for many New Zealanders. Opened in 1935, the Church of the Good Shepherd is the only church in Lake Takapō and continues to be a place of worship for local residents. It is non-denominational.

The planet Pluto.

There are informational films about Pluto numerous times every day.

Takapo is known for its beautiful turquoise waters.  The first people to enter what is now known as the Mackenzie Basin were the Māori.  The tribe was in Tapako to gather food, and something upset them, so they left in the middle of the night. It was unusual for the Māoris to travel at night. I could not find any information on what "upset" them.

It looked stormy, so I decided against a mountain climb in favor of a trail partway around the lake. Every step provided awe-inspiring views. There was a fairly stiff breeze which kept the temperature down to a pleasant level.

I was in for a pleasant surprise when I checked into my accommodations.  I have a very modern tiny house with a separate bedroom and full kitchen.  It even has AIR Conditioning.  OMG!  Praise the Lord.

As you can see, I have a large balcony and an incredible view.

The view.

And the view!  I was so excited to have this beautiful place to stay that I walked into the village of Takapo for takeout. It was an easy walk. I had my heart set on Ramen from a Japanese Ramen restaurant, but it was closed until 6:00.  I didn't want to do anything but enjoy my little house, so I ordered a chicken ciabatta from the Greedy Cow minutes before it closed at 4:00. They had a line out the door all afternoon so I figured it must be a good place.  It was one of the best sandwiches I had ever had.  So nothing was lost as I sat on my balcony and watched the world go by.  I have three nights here, so I may still get my ramen.  Tomorrow, weather permitting, I intend to tramp (don't you love that word - so New Zealand) to the summit of Mt John.

Until tomorrow - may your accommodations be as favorable as mine!

 

Lake Ohau

These are the mountains at sunset.  I don't have internet in my room, so I had to wait until this morning to add this photo.  I read for a while and realized it was 10:00 - late for a hiking trip.  Not quite dark, but I could tell the sky was borderline cloudless.  I stayed up until about 11:00 just to see the stars. But the true wonder of the night was when I woke up at 3:00 and went outside and looked up. Those stars of my childhood memories still exist. Millions of them, so close that I realized that I had unconsciously raised one hand to touch them.  Did you know they are actually brighter in the Southern Hemisphere?  I looked it up - they reflect more sunshine. And the Milky Way was practically pearlized in a large band across the night. I dragged my desk chair outside and sat in my jammies in total wonder.  I miss stars. We have too much light pollution in Louisville to ever see the stars. I finally went back inside when I got cold.  Jammies are not very warm in the mountains.

 

I had a tasty cooked breakfast.  They didn't have Diet Coke or Pepsi.  They had a New Zealand all-natural version.  Hmmmm, not bad, but I think I will stick with our two brands.

I started on this trail.

I can't quit taking photos of this phenomenally gorgeous area.

I saw a white stoat today. Evidently, they are also called ermines, mainly if they are in their white winter coats. They change from reddish brown to white in cold regions in order to blend into the snow. They are also called short-tailed weasels.  Introduced into New Zealand in the late 19th century to control rabbits, the stoat has had a devastating effect on native bird populations.  Pound for pound, they are the most ferocious hunters in the animal world, but they only weigh in at about a pound to a pound and a half. New Zealand is trying to rid itself of these pests. Their idea, not mine. I thought he was beautiful, but I wasn't quick enough to get a photo.

I copied this one from the free internet photos.  Don't you think he is cute?

According to the trail sign, the mountains at Lake Ōhau were created between 18,000 and 32,000 years ago by a giant glacier. The Lake was created when the glacier melted, and the meltwater filled the basin.

These little bridges were fun to cross over.

This one was full of babbling mini waterfalls.

The shade on some parts of the trail was a slice of heaven because it was pretty warm today.

More stunning vistas.

As you can see, it is starting to cloud up.

I am still going up at this point.

More clouds and the wind was picking up. The breeze felt good.

I hurried back to the car.  It was so clear today when I started that I almost didn't pack my rain gear.  BUT, I lectured myself on "practice what you preach" and stuffed it into my pack.  Didn't need it, but the weather can change so fast in the mountains.

I was hungry for something sweet when I got back to the lodge.  They had these giant chocolate muffins.  I practically demolished it. 

My entertainment for the late afternoon.  These kids (twenty-year-olds) sauntered by my room in swimsuits, headed for the lake. I could hear their cold water shrieks from my room a good city block away.  Ahhhhhh, to be twenty again. 

Dinner was fabulous.  Just look at the color of this carrot and ginger soup.  It was followed by freshly caught, soy/honey glazed salmon and sticky toffee pudding.

It looks cloudy but who knows, if I am lucky, I will wake up at 3:00 and be able to star glaze. Most of the time when I wake up in the middle of the night, it is not a good thing but here I am hopeful.  Never say Never.  Love to you all!

Christchurch to Lake Ohau

Kia Ora!  This is today (Wednesday's Post). 

I finally got my pastie.  I stopped at a bakery and had difficulty choosing among the 12 to 15 different ones.  Finally, I picked the beef with cheese. Imagine the best tender roast you have ever tasted, the type your grandmother made for special occasions. And then pause to wonder how they got perfect gravy inside a pie crust. Indescribably melt-in-your-mouth tasty.

This was the view of my pastie lunch. On a clear day, like today, you can see Aoraki, aka Mount Cook, the highest mountain in New Zealand.  Aoraki is the ancestral mountain of the Maoris. Aoraki was the ancestor who traveled down from the heavens in a canoe with his three brothers - Rakirua, Rakiroa, and Rarakiroa.  On the way home, the canoe crashed into the ocean, forming the South Island of New Zealand.

Lake Pukaki

I loved this bit of Maori wisdom.

Finally, after driving 360 kilometers, I arrived at the Lake Ohau Lodge.  It is beautiful in a rustic way.

This is the view from my room.  And when I saw the spacious bathroom, I was ecstatic. A BATHTUB! I know that 90% of you probably prefer a shower, but I love a bath - a glorious muscle-relaxing bath.  Ahhhhhhhh.

But before the bath, I wanted to hike - somewhere - anywhere. I drove an additional 25 + miles, mainly on a slip-sliding gravel road. Shades of the Dukes of Hazard.  I never found the trailhead I was looking for, but the scenery was an artist's rendition of heaven.  I was really sorry that Dennis went home today.  I would have loved to have shared it with him or any of you.

I must have taken a hundred photos, each one equally stunning.

So when I reached this gate - I got out and walked for an hour, soaking up the glory surrounding me. Oh, my. God was at his best on the day he created this bit of New Zealand. This was the most beautiful scenery of the trip.

I had a wonderful group dinner here at the lodge.  I was seated across from a young (40ish) man who was scouting the area for a possible television show. Most interesting. And a big, happy-go-lucky type man who was here with building some new homes. He was lots of fun. We started with creamy cauliflower soup and homemade bread.  Next, we were served a mustard crust beef ribeye that was superb.  It was accompanied by truffle parsnip puree with balsamic roasted beets.  Yum!  Dessert, as if I had room, was sticky toffee pudding with caramel sauce, topped with vanilla ice cream.  I suffered through and managed to eat my whole dessert.  I will not waddle back to my room.

Hugs and kisses to you all.  

Dunedin to Christchurch

 

This is yesterday's (Tuesday in New Zealand) post because I couldn't get my photos to download.  And it will be a short one. All we did was drive.  The scenery was spectacular, but it was a long day to sit in a car. I am not a good passenger.  By the time I get out, I want to run in twelve directions just to burn off sitting.

I was dying for one of those pasties, those savory pies that you find all over New Zealand.  Of course, there was no bakery to be found for miles and miles.  Finally, we stopped at a Chinese restaurant, and it was surprisingly good.  

Dennis had spicy ginger beef and fried rice.

I had vegetables over lo mein noodles.  Every order came with a cup of chicken and corn soup.  I have noticed that this soup is the preferred starter for Chinese restaurants in New Zealand.  I like it but not as much as hot and sour soup.

We stayed at a Victorian B & B called the Grange Boutique.  It was much prettier than my photo. It had a garden with many colorful flowers.

We walked down the street to a restaurant called Fiddlesticks.  We started with the bread appetizer, which consisted of two perfect slices of sourdough and two incredible slices of rosemary focaccia. I would beg in the streets for more of this bread. There was a small jar of halloumi butter to spread on the bread.  Halloumi is a famous cheese here in NZ.  Dennis had the grilled chicken salad Roquette, pear, and candied walnuts.  Roquette is arugula or rocket lettuce.  I think I ate half of the arugula.  My favorite salad of the trip.  I know it is a little weird, but the salad course is my favorite course.   If a restaurant doesn't have a good salad, I am probably not going to come back willingly.

I had Risotto with mushrooms, aged pecorino, balsamic, and walnuts.  It was lip-macking good, creamy, but not soupy. In New Zealand, walnuts are used frequently in entrees, and I like them in anything. We don't use nuts enough in savory dishes, they add an unexpected crunch.

So not the most interesting day to blog, but I love New Zealand.  Not only is the scenery spectacular, but the people are so nice, very friendly, and helpful.  

Until tomorrow - no worries!

Catlins Coast to Dunedin

 

I don't usually like protein bars or spackle bars, as I call them - too gummy and nasty. This however was a total exception.  Has anyone seen them in the US?

Our rist stop this morning was the Cathedral Caves.

What is more beautiful than the sea?  And the sound of the waves crashing against the shore is one of the more magical sounds of God's universe. 

When  was in college at FSU, I was fortunate enough to tag along with a friend who was an expert on Florida's Caves.  A Spelunker extrodinaire.  I have loved caves ever sense.

From the inside looking out.

These sea lettuces were the scary dreams of horror movies.

Dennis got coffee at this quirky little place.  

Shortly afterwards, we stopped at little mini-market.  Dennis got a chicken cranberry handpie and I got a thai chicken handpie.  Might be a lunch on the road but it was darn good.

Our next stop was "Lighthouse Viewpoint."  What is not to like about a lighthouse?

I think lighthouse have captured the imagination of generations gone by and the hearts of yuppies, guppies, and even future generations.  

This view was many feet don and yet I wanted to slide down and see what was in this rock.

Okay, 3 year old potty humor but we had some laughs over KaKa point.

Our hotel tonight was in Dunedin.  I love street art. This was particularly clever.  We had dinner at "Lone Star." Originally, I was not thrilled with the idea.  I had Veggie Quesadillas and Dennis had a chicken burrito.  

My favorite wine (in the U. S.) is Whitehaven, a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc.  So now I can say that I had a Whithaven in New Zealand.  It was even better here! As is all things on Vacation!

Okay, this is a bit of a quick posting but I had two to write today.  So forgive me.

Love to you all!