Byrness to Kirk Yelholm 5/13/25

Good morning!

This is Brandt, a Hungarian Wirehaired Pointer.  He was camping with a couple staying in a tent outside the hotel.  We all fell in love with him.

I had such a good time staying at this hotel for two nights.  Meals were especially fun with the camaraderie of hikers. On the far left is Laura, and next to her is her husband Oliver. They are terrific hosts and lots of fun.  On the right is Ed from the Netherlands.

Ed and I have stayed (not together) in the same hotels for several nights on this trip. Yesterday, he left two hours ahead of me and announced, “She will not pass me again on the trail.”  In all fairness, he was carrying a huge backpack.

Today was rated as the hardest day on the Pennine Way. To make it even more challenging, I had to climb a three-mile steep trail from the B&B before I reached the Pennine Way.  It lived up to the hype and then some.

It is hard to tell, but when I reached the start of the Pennine Way, I was already above the clouds—breathtaking.

The top of the second, long, long, steep mountain.

I was able to grab my camera in time to get a photo of this deer.

More up and up.  Pant-Pant, Gasp-Gasp! I sounded like a stem engine by the time I got to the top but I channeled the little train that said, “I think I can,I think I can."

The top of the third climb to the clouds. I admit that my thighs were screaming by this time. And it wasn’t even close to over.

The last day of the Pennine Way was rated the most beautiful, and the scenery lived up to that statement. 

Stunning in all directions.

The sign points to the direction of the Pennine Way and says 4 1/2 miles. I am getting there. It was my first sign that said Kirk Yetholm.  YAY!

Look at this guy with the long horns. I couldn’t get him to turn his head my way. And I probably looked like some deranged old woman cheerleader trying to get his attention.

For the last mile, there were tons of yellow flowers.

Horses for Janet. 

The most beautiful sight in the world.  The Border Hotel in Scotland! I made all of the days with no rain whatsoever.  I was afraid to tell you that along the way lest I jinx myself. I was expecting rain on several days.  The Pennine Way is known for wet days with ankle deep mud.

I got to sign the book, a tradition since 1971.

They awarded me a certificate for this accomplishment.  A nice touch.

And they took my photo by the pile of discarded hiking boots.  I am holding my certificate.

Dinner in the bar was delicious. I had the best Mac and Cheese I have had in years. I am a bit of a purist. If I am going to have Mac and cheese, I don’t want lobster or tomatoes, and I especially don’t want an over-easy fried egg on top. It was accompanied by a salad with a tangy dressing and garlic bread. 

So tomorrow I am heading to London to get the long flight home.  This has been an incredible experience. I find it difficult to imagine seeing the vastness of Northern England and not know there is indeed a God, a merciful, loving God, a God who helped me when I was lost and sent those trail angels at just the right time. I have never seen so many mountains crowded together in one place, and through God’s grace, I managed to summit each one and find my hotel.I will admit to some grumbling and a few cuss words on the uphill.  Long, challenging hikes are just like life.  There are ups and downs, and many frustrations. Then there come magnificent summits, making it all worthwhile. And coming home is just the icing on the cake.

So I bid you good night one more time, and God Bless.

Byrness to Trows Farm/transfer back to Byrness 5/12/25

 

What a day! About 22 miles with my missteps and the long trail to reach the pick-up spot.

Having read a fair amount of British literature, I had always heard of boiled eggs and toast soldiers, so I ordered that, plus mushrooms. It is buttered toast cut into strips.  I liked it enough that I have ordered it for breakfast tomorrow.  YUM!

These Brits are right to the point.

The hike's beginning was a long, long, steep, steep uphill.  

More uphill.

The warning on the right says, “Danger! Do not touch any military debris. It may explode and kill you.  That is enough warning for me, not that I am inclined to pick up bombs or hand grenades.

At about this point, my phone's map went haywire. It had a foreign language, maybe Dutch? Covering the front, and I could no longer access my map.  I sat on the ground for over an hour trying unsuccessfully to get the map back.  How frustrating, not to mention, a bit of a disaster

The scenery today was spectacular, but the photos just don’t show the height and vastness of today’s hike.

I had heard there were wild goats on the trail, and I spotted two of them today. They had long horns and were pretty large for goats. They didn’t seem afraid of me, but I didn’t challenge them.

Today seemed to be 100% uphill.  Every time I thought I was at the top, nope, there was more up that I couldn’t see yet.

This fence is the border between Scotland and England.

Wilson’s Cairn.  I couldn’t find any info on Wilson, but it was the last marker for today’s trail.

The day was already tough without my map, and there were many wrong turns.  I felt like I was running all day.  I had to be at the pickup point by five o’clock. Usually, I would have been there way early...

So here is where it all went wrong.  I didn’t know it would be so far off the trail, like three miles further.  I got to about two and a half miles without my map working, so I decided I was off trail.  I backtracked and followed the directions, so I repeated where I was. I sat in a field and called the hotel to clarify the directions.  I might have seen the abandoned house if I had just gone a little further.  The hotelier and the ride back to the hotel drove a little further and found me.  I was really only about 10 minutes late. But late is late and not in my DNA.

For dinner, I ordered the mixed mushroom and ale pie. It was delicious. I barely touched the green beans and potatoes because the mushroom pie was very filling. The crust was crisp and perfectly made. For dessert, I had the meringues with yogurt and berries. Plus a couple of glasses of wine. Now it is off to beddy-bye for me.

Good night and God Bless.

Bellingham to Byrness 5/11/25

 Happy Mother’s Day to you all.  I was born to the world’s best Mom on May 10, Mother's Day, but my Birthday doesn’t always fall on the exact day.

Last night, I stayed at the charming B&B,  Lyndale Guest House.  It was run by a lovely couple in their 80s.  I am usually nervous about being the only guest because I can be a little shy, staying at some stranger's home.  I generally am more comfortable in a hotel.  I typically like some degree of anonymity, but I have nothing but good to say about the nicest hosts I have ever met.

As I ate breakfast this morning, I watched the neighbor’s cat sunning herself on the black rooftop. It made me homesick for Sir Winston (Churchill).  We named him that because we got him in London, Kentucky.  This little 8-pound bundle of joy has totally stolen my heart. I love all our cats, but this one is special.

Everywhere I go in England, I see these charging outlets, in every town, every park, and on every hike. 19.6% of all new cars sold in Britain are now electric.

Look at that gorgeous green.

I got a chuckle out of this as I walked by.

I don’t always think of England, with its large cities like London, having such wide open spaces.  

Bet on the Gray.  I love grey horses. Not her best pose because she was not as decrepit as she looks in this photo.  Blame the photographer.

Part of today’s walk was through heather.  I am sure in a month or so it will be in bloom and much prettier than it is now.

Ankle-deep red mud.  I felt like I was in Georgia.  There was no way around it.

I sat at this marker for the Pennine Way for lunch. I stopped by the Co-Op grocery store this morning and bought a sandwich, chips, and fruit. I had no idea what had happened to my sandwich, but when I stopped for lunch, I had no sandwich. To say it was a light lunch would be an understatement.

More heather, and somehow, I brushed by some stinging nettles.  They really are stinging. Thankfully, it was only on my right ankle.

At first, this little round marker confused me.  I kept thinking it said, “Pennine Way - Please Leave.”  Then I realized that maybe it meant to leave the round thing, so I did.

Look at how up this dang road is.  When I got to the top, I walked through the Redesdale Forest.  Shade!  Hallelujah, most of this walk since the beginning has been through treeless hills with no shade whatsoever.

I am staying at the Forest View Walkers Inn.  Don’t let the dull outside fool you.  It was pretty nice inside.

I ordered the pasta special, and it was delicious. I rarely eat my whole entree, but I did a pretty good job on this one. I didn’t eat all of it, but at least I didn’t have to apologize and say it was good—it was just too much. For dessert, I had raspberry swirl gelato.

We had such a fun group for dinner.  The couple in the front are my friends, Beau and Sally.  Everyone at the table was Dutch except the man sitting next to me and his wife, next to him.  I think they live in England.

So, another day, another mile.  I bid you goodnight and sleep well.