Zermatt 7/14 to 7/15/24

Zermatt’s tribute to the marmots.

I heard such happy music as I headed for this morning's hike. And they had 2 accordion players, Dennis!

An Alphorn orchestra. Switzerland has so many cool things. This was across from the underground funicular I took to the Sunnegga gondola. 

I took another gondola to Blauherd, where I had a great "all-American" cheeseburger.  It was cooked on a flat top, just like I remember from my childhood at Reelfoot Lake beaches - Sunkist and Magnolia  I am trying to remember the third one. I could smell those burgers when I got off the gondola. For a diet coke, fries and a burger was just a little over $60.00 I almost choked on the bill. I paid a lot for that exquisite view.  Good thing I thoroughly enjoyed this burger.

I took yet another gondola to Rothorn.  On the ride, I met an American couple who are getting married in December.  They were so cute and clearly in love.  They had signed up for a half-hour tandem flight.  She was admittedly scared, and he was putting on his best manly face to fake not being scared.

Here they are with their two tandem instructors just before take off.

And they are off!

These are Valais Blackneck goats native to this small area. Their black front half and white rear half are so interesting. They remind me of black-and-white cookies.

The Rothorn Glacier is shrinking every year thanks to global warming.

That kind of trail sign I love - clear as a bell.

The Alpen Rose, synonymous with Switzerland, only grows an inch to two inches every 100 years.  Bushes this large are very old.

The walk from the funicular was so colorful.

My last five-course meal was again at the fabulous restaurant at the Hotel Europe. My appetizer was a fatty sausage topped with avocadoes, pomegranate seeds, and a vinaigrette dressing.  I am not so fond of those fatty meats, but I loved the avocado and pomegranite combination.

Jerusalem artichoke cream soup with fresh ginger. The ginger was faint, but it was there, adding just a little extra kick to this already scrumptious soup.

Of course, I overdid the salad bar. My entree was stuffed veal breast with port wine sauce, buttered tagliatelle, and summer vegetables. The veal was melt-in-your-mouth tender, and everything else just boosted its flavor.  For dessert, I was served a floating island with a mound of soft meringue puddled in a vanilla cream sauce with one sprig of mint.  I am really going to miss this restaurant.  We are used to American hotel restaurants being less than Michelin-starred, but not so in Europe.

Tomorrow, I head back home. I live by some rules that are continually strengthened by my hiking adventures. As I reflect on the past month, what did I learn?    

    Never underestimate the kindness of strangers. I am humbled by the kindness and helpfulness of European people. 

Tip generously. I believe with all my heart that God instructs us to be generous. Plus, you never know when you may need that person's help. How about when you realize that you left your wallet, your iPad, your phone, etc. It didn't happen to me on this trip, but I have left almost everything somewhere in all my years of travel.

    Smile!  It is incredible how people respond to a sincere smile. 

    Realize that there is always a bright side to every misstep and disaster.  I had been trying to see stars for many months but living in a city, there is too much light pollution. And when I was far out in the country, it was always cloudy. When I was stuck on that mountain all night, I finally got to see stars - the biggest, brightest stars you can imagine.  I felt like I could reach out and touch them. Proof of God's love that he gave us such beauty.

    But the biggest thing of all - we are never alone.  God is always with u, night and day.  Right along with that, we never do anything by ourselves. This time God rescued me on his time, not mine, but there is no doubt that he rescued me.

Tomorrow, I get on the big bird to fly home. Actually, when you live in Louisville, KY, it takes a whole flock to get home.  God bless you all and thank you for reading my blog and encouraging me along the way.

Until next time.

   

Zermatt 7/13/24for

I walked up to Zmutt to get a good photo op for the Matterhorn.  It was a beautiful day, the air was lightly scented with fresh flowers and there is nothings that fills my heart fuller than a mountain hike.

A little trail art.  The alphorn was originally used to call cattle.

The flowers, or as Nanny used to say, the flairs, are really starting to bloom.

I was starving by the time I got back to Zermatt. It was 2:00. I ordered kartoffelkroketten mit raclette kase which is croquettas of potatoes and raclette cheese. They were lip smacking good.  Of course, we Southerners know you can fry up an old tire and it will taste pretty good but this was way better than just any old fried thing.

Vibrant art across from where I was having lunch.

A 3-D advertisement for a local hotel.

The mountaineers’ cemetery is a moving reminder of the accidents that have occurred in the mountains around Zermatt. The tranquil site is a memorial to all climbers who have lost their lives here. This was the only woman buried in the old part of the cemetery, who died climbing the Matterhorn. if you can call 24 years old a woman.  More like a girl, entirely too young to die.

From the Zermatt website, “The inscriptions reveal that women and men from all over the world have died on the Matterhorn, Täschhorn, Weisshorn, Liskamm, Obergabelhorn and on the Monte Rosa massif. At the mountaineers’ cemetery, visitors can see the graves of about 50 climbers who perished in the surrounding mountains. Most date from the 19th century, some from the early-20th century. This was the only American.” Most of the deaths seemed to be on the Matterhorn.

One of the more interesting pieces of art dedicated to a fallen climber.

The “Grave of the Unknown Climber,”is a tribute to the more than 500 deaths, which have taken place on the Matterhorn since 1865. And of the missing and dead, who could not be found or completely removed after their fall.  There are still 27 climbers whose bodies have never been found.

The following words are engraved in the mountain guides memorial stone: “Mountain guides: victims of their vocation.” The text continues: “Here, we lost our lives. Up there, we found life again. On the holy mountain of the Lord.” I believe with all my heart that I would rather live one day doing what I love than cowering in my house, afraid to live.  I was fascinated by the gnarled hands reaching up.

I noticed something unusual in the regular cemetery - most of the tombstones had photos of the deceased. So many times I have been in a graveyard and wondered about a stranger’s name on a tombstone. It would be fascinating to see a photo.

Tonight was a very interesting buffet cookout.  We started with the salad bar of at least fifty choices.

Next was the buffet with a plethora of more salads, like potato salad and various vegetables. 

There were at least 10 kinds of meats such as ribs, filet steak, cowboy steak, chicken, lamb, hangar steak, sausage, and more I can’t remember. Our friend Jack Wetzel would have been in hog heaven. I always fill up on the salad and vegetables, my favorite part of the meal. I know that I am a little weird. However, if you think I am just trying to be healthy, you would be wrong.  I love all the bad things you can add to both. Just to mention Southern cooks, we can turn the healthiest vegetable into a pie with sugar and butter.

Dessert was grilled pineapple accompanied by mango sorbet.  The entire dish was sprinkled the chopped nuts flavored with anise seeds, a mind blowing combination. I was so stuffed that I wandered around town for an hour.  How will I ever go back to real food?

So I bid you good night and God bless you all.

Gruben to Zermatt 7/12/24

 I hope all of you knew I was pulling your leg with my story about throwing my laptop off the balcony. I seriously considered it when I lost my post. I wanted to have a little fun with my computer frustration fantasy.

The weather cast for today at the Augsburg Pass was terrible. It was raining in Gruben, which is in a high valley. It was snowing up at the pass.  I learned a long time ago if the weather is bad when you start, it will be 10 X worse at the top of the mountain. I never even considered attempting to climb the pass, a gain of about 3,000 feet.

There are not many options for public transportation out of Gruben.  A taxi cost around $400 to take me to a gondola.  The information in my guide book said taxi was the best option. I discovered there was a private bus at 10:30 which took me right to the gondola. It was less than $10.00. Obviously a well-kept secret.

The tiny gondola, only holding 4 people ended in Oberems, a beautiful little village with a bus station. God always sends me an angel.  This time in the form of two Canadians.  It was a 15-20 unmarked walk 

to the train station, where the busses left from.  I would have never found it without their assistance.

It was a crazy, winding road over a mountain.  Zermatt is a car free town so the last 15 minutes was by train.  My room is gorgeous and quite large.  Usually, if I am traveling alone, they stick me in the broom closet.

The view of the Matterhorn from my balcony.

I was starving by the time I got checked in.  It was 2:00 and all I had eaten was a piece of toast for breakfast. This guy was grilling brats and I can’t remember a better one.

I had a little time before dinner so I visited the Eglise St. Mauritius which dates back to 1285.

It was totally remodeled in 1980 and my favorite part was the ceiling fresco of Noah’s Ark painted by Italian Artist Paola Parente. My first impression was it looked l like the cover of a children’s book. The idea was to bring the parish church into this century.  I think Pope Francis is trying to do the same thing.

The main altar, built centuries ago but beautiful just the same, in its baroque style.

I have 5 course included dinner all 3 nights here in Zermatt.  My first course made me swoon. It was a  

Truffled Burrata with leeks and mangoes.  It was the most unusual and magnificent combination I have had in many moons.

Next came a tomato soup made with fresh tomatoes and a shot of gin.  I sat wondering if I added a shot of gin to some Campbells  if it would taste the same.  NAH! The next course was a very large, beautiful salad bar.

My main course was fresh Red Snapper with spinach risotto.  I think it also had fresh green peas.  The risotto was so fresh and flavorful, the chef must have cooked it in the garden.  It was accompanied by pearl mushrooms and tiny baby squash.  I couldn’t decide which of the three things on my plate was my favorite.

The dessert was plum compote with cinnamon-chocolate ice cream this chef really knows his flavor profiles. 

Such a great day!  I love Zermatt but I am getting antsy so see Dennis, our four legged babies, and my friends.  Good night and God bless.

Gruben 7/11/24 The Real Deal

Good morning. I am a bit later in posting this. After accidentally erasing my almost finished blog last night, I pitched my lap top off the second story balcony.  Did you know that you can spin one like a frisbee? I was impressed at how far I could sail it into the darkness. It took me a while to find it.  Lucky for me, it landed in a fir tree. I was I initially afraid the hotel staff would discover me climbing the tree and think I needed rescuing.  I have already had one too many rescues and should the authorities have a record of the “event,” they would send me to the Swiss looney bin. I am in the German-speaking region of Switzerland and that brought up some uneasy thoughts, especially since I am midway through a novel about WWII.  I have a few more scratches but my lap top seems to be fine. Oh well, all’s well that ends well.  

I had to take all modes of transportation, except for a donkey cart to St. Luc where I caught a funiculaire train to Tignousa, and the trailhead.

First junk (antique?) store I have seen in Switzerland.

Tignousa is well known for its Planet Park, a unique playground with a spade shuttle, slides, and Planets Trail.  Along the first quarter-mile of my hike, there were stations for each planet, art, and telescopes.  It was a fun diversion.

But all fun things come to an end and it was back to straight-up climb.

I crossed lots of these small streams and a few bigger ones.

So many beautiful waterfall along the way.  There is something so peaceful, almost hypnotic, about the sound of rushing water.

The struggle up-mountain seemed never ending

I had to cross the snow on the side of a hill and one misstep would have landed me this half-frozen lake.  Good incentive for caution. I had to cross many glaciers and snow.  Thank heavens for mini-spikes.

Finally, pant-pant, gasp-gasp, couple of swear words, and a gallon of sweat, I reached the pass at about 9200 feet.  I could feel the thinner air. This marks the divide between French - speaking and German - speaking Switzerland.

There was a very narrow trail right after the pass that was spooky narrow.  Right foot left foot slow.   If I fell, it was trailhead off a cliff. Many years ago, on a guided trip, Swedish Daniel cautioned me that in the mountains you do one thing at a time.  If you are going to take a phot, you stop, snap, and then continue walking.  I have followed Daniel’s Rule ever since. It has probably save me numerous tumbles.

I kept thinking that if I could just reach the top, going down hill would be much easier and faster. Au Contraire.  It was brutally sheep and rocky. A number of times I slid, but never fell, thanks to my sticks.  I still preferred it to uphill.

I have no explanation. I saw no Native Americans so it wasn’t ours. They were big enough for 2-3 people.  I guess if you want to travel to Switzerland and sleep in a teepee?  Whatever floats your boat.

The most beautiful sight - the Swartzhorn Hotel in Gruben. It sits on a hill, and then I had to go up four double sets of stairs.

The rooms were dormitory style and as you see two of them were already claimed. I had one of the single rooms but I shared a bath with 2 other single rooms.

Dinner was much like hut dining except there were individual tables.  The main course was a decent chicken and rice.  In hut style you always get a salad and watery mystery vegetable soup. The dessert was 

Crème Caramel.  Filling for those starving hikers.

So I bid you good night and by the way I was just kidding!